Inefficient chemical use in RMG costs billions, pollutes environment

Inefficient use of chemicals in dyeing fabric in the export-oriented garments and textile industry results in nearly 70% of chemicals being wasted, amounting to billions of dollars, experts and entrepreneurs have said.

These wasted chemicals are either treated at Effluent Treatment Plants (ETPs) at high costs or discharged into rivers and canals, causing significant environmental pollution.

The RMG industry, however, has the potential to use chemicals more efficiently by implementing advanced technologies and increasing user awareness, they said during a roundtable at The Business Standard office in the capital's Eskaton on Monday.

TBS Head of Digital Zahid Newaz Khan moderated the roundtable titled, "Textile Pollution Control and Improving Workers' Occupational Health Safety through Chemical Management", jointly organised by The Business Standard, Solidaridad, and ESTex Foundation.

RMG companies producing export products typically have ETPs to treat wastewater and remove harmful chemicals, dyes, and pollutants. However, companies manufacturing for the local market often lack ETPs.

According to central bank data, in FY23, Bangladesh imported chemical products for the chemical and allied industries worth approximately $7.5 billion, representing 12.2% of the country's total annual imports.

R&D needed to curb chemical use

Addressing the event, Shajedul Islam Maruf, deputy general manager (DGM) of the Sustainability Department at Beximco, said, "Around 70% of the chemicals used in textile dyeing are wasted and discarded, and we rely on ETPs to neutralise these wasted chemicals."

He explained that fabrics are dyed at high temperatures in large drums filled with chemicals that coat the fabric, while the leftover chemicals, worth billions of dollars annually, are discarded.

"Rather than disposing of them after one use, we could recover and reuse chemicals like caustic soda, salt, and indigo," he suggested.

Maruf emphasised the importance of developing strategies to prevent chemical waste, saying, "If we manage chemical use effectively, we can move towards a net-zero carbon emission target as envisioned by the chief adviser [Muhammad Yunus]."

He also stressed the need to use multi-functional chemicals, which could replace multiple products, thus reducing pollution. "There are now many sensitive chemicals that can achieve maximum output with minimal use," he added.

Additionally, Maruf highlighted the need for industrial R&D to reduce chemical consumption. "We have been discussing occupational safety in the garment sector for decades, but its financial implications have rarely been addressed," he noted.

Central database to monitor chemical use

Presenting the keynote, Mohidus Samad Khan, a professor at the Department of Chemical Engineering at Buet, said, "Bangladesh uses chemicals across various sectors, with the textile sector being the largest consumer."

But to prevent significant waste of chemicals in the garment sector, proper management is essential, he said.

The professor said the key principles of sustainability in the apparel industry include eliminating waste and pollution, circulating products and materials, and regenerating nature. "The goal is to extend the life of textile products while reducing their environmental impact," he said.

Mohidus also mentioned the lack of a central database for monitoring chemical use in the industry. "Raising chemical management awareness among workers is crucial," he concluded.

Tech can recover wasted chemicals

Easir Arafat Khan, associate professor at Buet's Department of Chemical Engineering, said, "The chemicals we use have measurable impacts, and among them, some are hazardous. We must assess whether they are truly necessary."

He said, "Around 85% of occupational deaths in the country are linked to chemical-related diseases, while 15% are due to accidents. For instance, many factory workers are developing cancer. We need to pay more attention to workplace safety, particularly for those handling chemicals.

"By applying advanced technology to chemical use, we can recover chemicals, reduce environmental pollution, and boost company profits."

Masud Rana Shahin, general manager of W3RS, an environmental consultancy firm, said, "By forming partnerships with chemical suppliers, companies can ensure high-quality chemicals, leading to long-term business benefits."

Mohammad Monower Hossain, head of Sustainability at leading apparel manufacturer Team Group, said over 200 top RMG factories are equipped with training centres focused on proper chemical use and R&D facilities. 

However, they require assistance from the National Skills Development Authority (NSDA) to enhance their skills. "If the NSDA steps forward, the industry would benefit significantly," he added.

Chemical safety key to protecting workers' health

Ali Asraf Khan, sustainability and value chain adviser at the Embassy of Denmark in Dhaka, stressed the undeniable importance of chemical safety for workers' health, the environment, and local communities.

"The consequences of inadequate chemical safety and management at production facilities are severe: workers have died, rivers have been polluted, and fishing communities have lost their livelihoods – to name just a few," he said.

He also said with the emerging legislation under the European Green Deal, it is expected that companies will increasingly consider chemical safety and management risks in their supply chains. 

"While Bangladeshi legislation and policies on occupational safety and health are relatively well-aligned with international standards, there is a continued need to improve compliance with and enforcement of these laws and regulations," Ali Asraf said.

Environmental concerns must not be overlooked

Selim Reza Hasan, the country manager of Solidaridad, a global civil society organisation, said, "The Rana Plaza incident was a major setback for us. Over the past decade, we have made significant progress in addressing building safety through collective efforts, but now the focus has shifted to environmental concerns. The primary issue here is chemical pollution. We must evaluate how chemicals are being used and ensure workers' safety in the process."

He added, "We have developed a chemical management module and aim to implement collective monitoring. We have to increase our knowledge and change our mindsets. If we cannot reduce pollution, we should also consider how we will sustain ourselves. It is essential to pay closer attention to how we use chemicals."

Fauzia Sultana, managing director of ESTex, said, "It is crucial to first understand the purpose behind using chemicals. We need a thorough understanding of chemical usage and recycling processes."