From dance hall to hotel to hospital: The story of Hotel Shahbagh

 After the 1947 Partition, Dhaka regained its status as the capital. But it was yet to be a modern city. Accommodation was not that good. There were no high-quality hotels to speak of, even though the elites of Pakistan, including numerous nawabs, visited the city on a regular basis. Central government officials also needed a place to stay during their visits. To address this issue, the East Pakistan government decided to build a three-star hotel in Shahbagh – they named it Hotel Shahbagh.

Hotel Shahbagh may have stood for just 16-17 years, but the fairly large structure carries a legacy that spans three eras: a vibrant dance hall under British rule, a prominent hotel during the Pakistan period, and today a cornerstone of Bangladesh's medical education.

Shahbagh was once home to Ishrat Manzil, a mansion that served as a hub of entertainment and indulgence for the nawabs of Dhaka. Renowned performers like Piyari Bai, Heera Bai and Abedi Bai were invited from Bangalore to entertain the nawabs with music and dance.

 Notably, it was here that a historic event - the founding of the All-India Muslim League - took place on 30 December 1906. Over 4,000 representatives from across India were invited to this gathering, which set the stage for the eventual Partition of India.

When the Partition of Bengal was annulled in 1911, Nawab Salimullah was heartbroken. Meanwhile, the All India Muslim League passed into the hands of Mohammad Ali Jinnah and his associates. Unable to bear this sorrow, Salimullah passed away a few years later. Nevertheless, the leadership of the Muslim League in Bengal largely remained with the Nawabs of Dhaka. Even after the partition of India, this continuity persisted. 

After the partition of India in 1947, Dhaka regained its status as the capital, albeit of the eastern province of Pakistan, but was yet to be a modern city. There were no high-quality hotels to speak of, even though the elites of Pakistan visited the city on a regular basis. To address this issue, the East Pakistan government decided to build a three-star hotel in Shahbagh, naming it Hotel Shahbagh.

 A royal hotel for public

When the East Pakistan government decided to build a residential hotel, the nawab family vacated Ishrat Manzil. The hotel's design was entrusted to British architects Edward Hicks and Ronald MacConnell. Back then, with fewer people and abundant space, architects could design freely.

 An article in the Daily Jugantor dated 1 April 1952, titled "Government Royal Hotel", described the ambitious project:      

"A grand building is under construction near the Ramna Racecourse. Once completed, it will be Pakistan's largest hotel, covering 1,23,124 square feet. The four-story hotel will feature 97 rooms, including 13'4"× 12' single rooms and 15'×13'4" double rooms, each with an attached visiting room. The ground floor will house a library, lounge, billiard room, banquet hall and a 100-foot-long dining area. A modern kitchen and beautiful gardens will complement the facility. The government is spending half a crore taka on this project, expected to open next year."

Azim Bakhsh, son of Maula Bakhsh Sardar and founder of Dhaka Centre, recalled that Hafizuddin and his brother Afsaruddin from Koltabazar were responsible for the construction. 

Best kabab in town

Tutu Saad, a resident of Segunbagicha since the 1950s, remembers frequent visits to the hotel with his family. He particularly recalls the exceptional kababs served there, describing them as "some of the best in Dhaka".

Writer and researcher Afsan Chowdhury also reminisces fondly about Hotel Shahbagh's food. "My father often brought food from there," he said. "I distinctly remember the pudding – it was excellent. They also served cakes during Christmas and other occasions, which were delightful."

Breakfast options included a continental breakfast for 2.5 rupees, and lunch was available for 4.5 rupees. The air-conditioned bar served spirits, wine and liquor. At the Chandrima Hotel, barbecue evenings under the open sky were a highlight.

Azim Baksh fondly recalled the kababs and parathas at Chandrima Hotel, which he had enjoyed multiple times. He cherished the memory of savouring kababs in moonlight. Additionally, a soft drink called "Cool", an orange-flavored beverage in glass bottles, was available at Shahbagh Hotel. Even people from outside the hotel could purchase it and later return the bottle for a refund.

25 rupee rooms

According to a 1968 newspaper featuring the hotel's rate chart, the rent for a single room was 25 rupees, while a double room cost 40 rupees. An additional 2 rupees were charged for telephone access, while air-conditioned rooms required an extra payment of 10 rupees. 

The hotel also offered convenient facilities like a post and telegraph office, a curio shop and a medical store.

Azim Baksh also remembers an automotive show organized by England's Hillman Car Company at the hotel.

Wedding destination

The hotel was a preferred venue for wedding receptions of the city's elite families. Afsan Chowdhury recalled that his elder brother's wedding reception was hosted at Shahbagh Hotel.

"At that time, it was still the largest hotel in Dhaka," he explained. His father, who was the deputy managing director of Pakistan National Bank, often attended meetings or events at the hotel. In 1968, when his elder brother got married, the family's good financial standing allowed them to host the reception at Shahbagh Hotel.

Azim Baksh did not personally attend such grand events but often witnessed movie shootings in Chandrima's open lawn. Though he couldn't recall the actors or film titles, it is known that Bangladesh's first full-length movie, Mukh O Mukhosh, had its launch at this hotel. In 1955, during the shooting of scenes for the Hollywood movie Around the World in 80 Days in Sreemangal, the entire film unit was accommodated at Shahbagh Hotel.

Poetry evenings and mushairas

The hotel was also a cultural hub, hosting poetry readings and literary gatherings. According to Hossain Mohammad Zaki, on 31 April 1968, a grand mushaira (poetry recital) was held at the Engineers' Institute. 

Most East Pakistani writers were unaware of this event. In response, the region's Writers' Association organized a counter poetry evening on 19 May of the same year in the banquet hall of Shahbagh Hotel, led by poet Hasan Hafizur Rahman.

Elegant ambiance and attire

Azim Baksh vividly remembers the hotel's entrance, which faced Pubali Bank, while the exit led toward Birdem General Hospital. The reception area was impressive, adorned with chandeliers and a bell hung with chains. The servers wore white achkans and pajamas with broad golden or red sashes around their waists and were referred to as butlers.

Tutu Saad added more details, mentioning that waiters wore white turbans and double-breasted coats with golden buttons, serving food with gloved hands. The hotel rooms were spacious and well-maintained.

Researcher Rezaul Karim Mukul documented that in one of Shahbagh Hotel's long corridors, Pakistan's "Mona Lisa," actress Deeba, sprinted for a scene in the movie Milan. Actor Rahman serenaded her with the song, in Bashir Ahmed's rendition, Tum Salamat Raho Muskurao Hanso.

From hotel to hospital

The groundwork for the transformation of the hotel into a hospital began in the 1960s. In 1961, discussions under the Dhaka University Ordinance proposed postgraduate medical education. By 1965, an ad hoc committee was formed to plan the establishment of a postgraduate center, which began its first academic sessions in borrowed classrooms at Dhaka Medical College.

However, the journey wasn't smooth. In 1968, Pakistan's central government resisted the development of a new institute, arguing that Karachi already had one. Dr Nurul Islam, a key figure in the project, had to argue that the geographic distance between the two provinces made such an institute necessary in East Pakistan. Eventually, the central government agreed but withdrew financial support, leaving the institute to depend on local efforts.

After the Liberation War, the government considered the Shahbagh Hotel as a permanent home for the Institute of Postgraduate Medicine and Research (IPGMR). The hotel was struggling financially, and much of its furniture and facilities were in poor condition. A committee, led by Dr Islam, assessed the building and deemed it suitable for conversion into a hospital.

 A legacy continues  

The first Health, Labour and Social Welfare Minister of independent Bangladesh, Zahur Ahmed Chowdhury, incorporated the Pubali Bank building – formerly the office of the Muslim League – into the IPGMR. From then on, research activities, departments and the number of students gradually increased. 

In 1975, Sir John Crofton of the Royal College of Physicians of Edinburgh visited the IPGMR and expressed satisfaction with its progress. It is worth mentioning that Dr James Cameron of the Royal College of Physicians was the first director of the IPGMR. 

The institution's journey of progress never stopped, though challenges, especially related to space, remained. After Cameron left in 1968, Dr Nurul Islam took charge as director and served in this position until 1987.

In 1998, the institution was upgraded to a university. However, it is still widely known as PG Hospital despite its formal name being Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujib Medical University (BSMMU).

Today the hospital caters to patients from all over the country every day. Everyone is busy – patients with their ailments and students with their classes and seminars. 

Ishrat Manzil has long disappeared, but the structure of the former hotel still stands. The legacy remains unforgotten.