Influenced by the Portuguese, Gani Bakery’s Bela biscuit still rules
Dating back 153 years, Bela biscuit is hailed as one of the oldest in the subcontinent. Over the years, it has become a culinary tradition embraced not only by the locals in Chattogram, but also across the country
"It was an evening in the 1960s when Abba returned home from the office with a few packets of biscuits. The moment those packets landed in our hands, a wave of joy swept through all our siblings. To an outsider, it would seem as if we had received a grand gift. We started to fight over the packets," as Nazmeena Haque reminisced about Gani Bakery's biscuits, a smile adorned her face, suggesting that a flood of memories from that era was resurfacing, one by one.
"Abba, observing our excitement, couldn't help but smile. It became a regular scenario – Abba arriving home with a packet of biscuits. Our mornings and evenings were marked by lively conversations over tea-soaked biscuits.
"Thus began our connection with Gani Bakery. Although Abba has been gone for many years, the lingering attachment to those biscuits remains. Every visit to Chattogram prompts me to bring back a few packets from the bakery, perpetuating the tradition," she added.
Associated with numerous tales and nostalgic recollections of people's childhoods, this bakery gained widespread recognition during World War II. Throughout the war, 'Gani Bakery' used to supply bread to British soldiers. Gani diligently produced bread for a considerable number of soldiers on a daily basis, with the British providing the necessary raw materials. From that wartime era to the present day, Gani Bakery has retained its status as a trusted and revered name among its customers.
The Journey started with Bela biscuit
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With a diverse range of 30 products, Bela biscuits stand out as the preferred choice among customers. Three varieties of Bela are on offer: Bela, Butter Bela, and Rose Bela. Among them, Butter Bela commands the highest price. A packet of 30 pieces of Butter Bela is priced at Tk150, while regular Bela and daily Bela are available at Tk110.
Dipping a biscuit into a cup of hot tea on a crisp morning brings a unique sense of tranquillity to everyone here. Currently, Butter Bela has become synonymous with Bela, marking an enduring connection. Bela biscuits share a deep-rooted bond with the people of Chattogram.
However, the journey of crafting biscuits commenced even before the establishment of the bakery 153 years back. Dating back 200 years, this biscuit is hailed as one of the oldest in the subcontinent. Over the years, it has become a culinary tradition embraced not only by the locals in Chattogram but also across the country.
Historical records suggest that the ancestor of Abdul Gani Saudagar, Lal Khan Subedar, and his son Kanu Khan Mistry pioneered bakery product production in Chattogram being inspired by the Portuguese food habit.
The Portuguese, with their diet centred around bread and various bakery items, influenced the local culinary landscape. The Portuguese had been in the area since the early 16th century.
The praises of traditional Bella biscuits can be seen in the writings of various authors.
In 1966, the renowned writer Abul Fazal's autobiographical book 'Rekhachitra' featured a nostalgic reference to Bela. In his words, he recalls, "I woke up and instead of pantabhat, was having tea with Bela Cookies. Cookies is an English word, but Bela is truly Chittagonian."
Abdullah Mohammad Ehtesham, the present owner of Gani Bakery, affirms, "Our most sought-after product is Bela Biscuits. We consistently sell 200-250 packets of biscuits each day."
The bakery is often unable to meet the high demand for Bela Biscuits. The primary reason for this limitation is the bakery's single branch, causing operational challenges. Additionally, the elaborate process of crafting Bela biscuits requires a full two days for completion. As a result, meeting a higher demand becomes impractical due to the time-consuming nature of the production.
Doing business for many generations
Situated in the Chandanpura area of Chattogram, this bakery has left such an indelible mark on the neighbourhood that there's an alley named after it—'Gani Bakeri Goli.' Heading this long-standing establishment, which has upheld its reputation for 153 years, is Abdullah Mohammad Ehtesham.
He learned the intricacies of the bakery from his father, Jamal Uddin. Following Jamal Uddin's passing, Ehtesham assumed the crucial responsibility of leading the bakery.
When asked about the possibility of opening another branch, Ehtesham responded, "My father initiated this shop, and it is our duty to preserve its legacy. We continue to operate not solely for profit but to uphold tradition. If our intention was purely business-oriented, we could have expanded with multiple branches by now."
He also highlighted the drawbacks of expanding with multiple branches. Opening additional outlets in different locations might compromise the quality of the products offered. While it could potentially increase the number of branches, there's a risk of diminishing the product's original quality.
The uniqueness of this bakery lies in its single branch, attracting old customers who seek the same taste they have enjoyed before. The satisfaction customers experience in obtaining products here may not be replicated if the bakery were to expand. Taking these considerations into account, he emphasised that the idea of opening a second branch has never materialised.
Biscuits still made in traditional way
This traditional bakery perseveres with its age-old methods. The same oven that crafted biscuits 150 years ago remains in operation, ensuring the authenticity and quality of the bakery products.
In an age dominated by modern technology, where multiple machines are employed, the bakery's commitment to making biscuits in a 'tandoor' persists to preserve the genuine taste and quality of the products. The clay oven, known as 'Tandur,' imparts a touch of antiquity to the entire biscuit-making process. A team of 15 skilled workers efficiently carries out this traditional method.
But because of this, the director of the bakery has to suffer a lot. Ehtesham said, "The clay tandoori oven used to make biscuits in 1870 had to be repaired repeatedly by coating it with clay. It might not have been so difficult if the machines had been used. However, the machine created a difference in the taste of the product. Tandoor is still trusted."
Not only that, they also have their own way of making biscuits. Yeast is usually used to make biscuits but not here. Instead of yeast, a mixture called 'Mawa' is used which is also popular as their secret recipe. Due to this, the taste of the biscuits is also different.
Bakarkhani of different taste
Another notable product of this bakery is Bakarkhani. While Bakarkhani is commonly associated with the saltiness of Old Dhaka, Gani Bakarkhani distinguishes itself by being less dry and salty. Bursting with juiciness and delectable flavours, this Chattogram specialty has secured a spot among all ages of people. Unique in taste, this bakarkhani is eaten with meat broth or meat.
Ehtesham said, "It is not possible to meet the actual demand. My bakery has only 15 employees. Some people order 200, 300 pieces of Bakarkhani in advance."
Loyal customers form a larger crowd
Customers share a longstanding connection with this bakery that has spanned over two centuries. Those who were once won over by the products of this bakery continue to be loyal patrons, maintaining a tradition that extends across generations.
In this regard, Ehtesham remarked, "Our previous customers return time and again. It's noticeable that their children have upheld the tradition of purchasing from this bakery."
"Gani is still standing tall for these customers. They have put their trust in us and we try not to lose that trust," Ehtesham said.
