Live bakeries: Dhakayaites latest street food obsession
From soft butter buns to golden croissants, live bakeries offer a unique culinary experience that resonates with the community's craving for quality and freshness
A baker is slathering butter onto a freshly baked bun at Makkah Live Bakery in Dhanmondi, while another guy pulls piping hot muffins straight from the oven. The aroma is irresistible. Fresh, sometimes hot, snacks, it's nearly impossible not to stop and indulge.
From Mirpur to Mogbazar, Mohammadpur to Banani, you've probably already noticed this trend—live bakeries popping up everywhere!
It seems like you can't walk through a neighbourhood without spotting one or two, attracting curious onlookers watching the magic happen, and others eagerly grabbing freshly baked goodies.
"During snack time, the smell fills the air, making it hard to resist," says Maliha Tul Islam, a university lecturer.
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Over the past decade, we've seen some foods grow popular. Momos made their way from high-end restaurants to street stalls. Waffles became the craze in the last couple of years, followed by the rise of wood-fired live pizza. Now, it's all about these live bakeries.
"People want to see what's going into their food," says Mahmud Hassan, owner of Daily Fresh Bakery in Dhanmondi. "It builds trust when they watch us prepare everything from scratch."
Fresh appeal
The appeal of live bakeries lies in their transparency and immediacy. "You have to book bread at least half an hour in advance," shares Tanjina Farhad Tushi, a resident of Banasree. "The bakery I buy from always has a line in the morning and evening. They're so fresh that even people who don't normally eat these items end up eating 6-7 pieces in one sitting."
Many proprietors emphasise their personal connection to the food quality. "I eat these items myself, and my children eat them too, so we try our best to maintain hygiene," says Sohel Khan, the owner of One Star Live Bakery in Hatirpool.
A few days back, they caught my eye. I wanted to try them, so I bought a butter bun for TK30. It was really soft, fresh and full of butter, unlike the one I get from my grocery shop. Ever since, I have tried to grab something on my way back home.
"Fresh bakery tastes good, and since it's open baking, people trust it," says Tahsin Zaman Siddique, a regular customer, even though he finds them a bit pricey.
The trend has spread so rapidly that, as Mohammadpur resident Shaown observes, "There are 4-5 bakeries every kilometre, and they're all doing well."
Muhammad Ershad, who established his "Live Hot Bakery" in front of Mokbul Hossain College, Mohammadpur, one month ago, starts his day before dawn.
"We begin preparation early in the morning, and it takes until afternoon to prepare everything," he explains. His shop offers everything from bread and cakes to biscuits and fast food items, with prices ranging from Tk10 for buns to Tk 220 for chocolate cake.
"Since moving to live bakeries, I don't eat packaged bread anymore," says Shafiyean Ardro, a university student, echoing a sentiment shared by many customers who've switched to these establishments for their daily bread needs.
In front of the New Age newspaper office, there are two live bakeries on opposite sides of the street, both opened within the last three months. "I started this one two months ago," said one of the owners. "The profit is good, and everything is sold out by 10 or 11 PM. If there's anything left, our staff takes it home."
A lucrative business
"The initial investment is relatively low; it takes a small space and is easy to set up," says Tahsin.
Sohel Khan set up his One Star bakery two months ago in Hatirpool. For the past 7-8 years, he's been in the bakery machinery and restaurant kitchen equipment business. This time, he thought, why not set up a bakery shop himself?
He shares that the basic machinery costs around Tk7-8 lakh, and a more extensive setup takes Tk10-12 lakh. The rest depends on the shop's rent or decoration. Mizanur Rahaman, for example, launched his shop around the Mohammadpur Bus Stand on 23 October, investing Tk15 lakh. "Seeing this new trend, I invested in this business," he says. "People like new things."
"The investment is manageable compared to other businesses," notes Noman Dip, a business consultant. "That's why many are attracted to this sector."
There are various training institutes around, like the National Hotel & Tourism Training Institute (NHTTI), where these bakers train. Each shop has specialists—some in fast food, some in bread, and usually each one has an assistant.
However, some industry observers, like Asaduzzaman Asad, offer a more nuanced perspective: "Chef training institutes are promoting this like coaching centres. They provide training, materials, and full setups - it's their main business now."
"When Bangalis find something new, they follow the trend. In a few days, it might become saturated like the burger and biryani shops," he added.
Sohel Khan says, "In Mohakhali, there are various course institutes that train specialists in different aspects of baking - from bread-making to fast food preparation."
Quality concerns
While most customers appreciate the freshness, some express concerns. "To bake quickly, they sometimes use harmful ingredients," warns Farhana Sharmin, a food safety advocate.
Another customer observes, "They are growing too fast and getting popular, but some don't maintain proper hygiene for a live bakery."
Adnan Hossain, a businessman, offers an economic perspective: "With limited investment options, even in the stock market, and scarce job opportunities, these small businesses provide a viable entrepreneurial path."
As evening approaches at Makkah Live Bakery, a new batch of croissants emerges from the oven, golden and flaky. The small crowd of onlookers just gets the pleasure of watching good food come to life.
