What makes biryani so aloo-ring?

Blame it on the childhood trauma of bonding with a goat only to see it turned into a sacrificial offering right before Eid, or maybe it's just my lifelong vendetta against bones in my food—either way, 'khashir mangsho' (goat meat/) has never made it to my culinary bucket list.

So, it probably won't shock you to learn that while I'm no vegetarian, lamb has somehow never crossed my palate either. And yes, whenever kacchi biryani is on the menu, you'll find me skillfully sidelining the pieces of 'khashir mangsho' and keeping the protein in exile far away to the edges of my plate.

I'll give you a moment to shake off that frown creeping across your forehead. 

But hear me out—I firmly believe I trade up every time I swap out the khashir mangsho for something far superior, infinitely tastier, and downright comforting—the 'biryanir aloo' (yes, the potatoes). 

Let's be honest, that's the real MVP of kacchi biryani. Forget the meat; the rice is nice, sure, but it's those perfectly spiced, melt-in-your-mouth aloo that keep me coming back. Without them, what's even the point?

And trust me,I'm not alone in this one. There are plenty of these weirdos out there who's fandom and devotion to the biryani aloo is just as intense.

From Kolkata to Dhaka

Ever wondered how potatoes evolved into being an integral part of kacchi biryanis? 

I mean, you ask for biryani, and not every restaurant in the world will be serving the dish with potatoes. There are plenty of states just in our neighbouring country where ordering a dish of biryani comes with no potatoes.

The origins of potatoes in biryanis are steeped in history and speculation, but there is an understanding that potatoes started making the cut to biryanis in Kolkata first. 

Although not definitively proven, it is widely believed that Wajid Ali Shah, the last Nawab of Awadh, introduced biryani to Kolkata when he was exiled there after being deposed by the British in 1856. 

Forced to leave his beloved Lucknow, Wajid Ali Shah recreated a mini-Awadh in west Kolkata, bringing with him Awadhi culture, music, traditions, and cuisine. His kitchens in Metiabruz began cooking the famed Awadhi biryani, but with a twist—potatoes.

There are claims that the Nawab, in financial straits, added potatoes to replace the costly meat. However, records show he spent lavishly, even maintaining a zoo with tigers fed on a meat-heavy diet. Instead, the potato's presence likely stems from its introduction to Bengal by the British in 1879, making its way into biryani after the Nawab's time.

And it is widely accepted that it was through its integration Kolkata that was the first step of the potatoes making it into our biryani culture.

"The dum biryanis introduced potatoes in Kolkata. Kolkata were the potato producers. Because meat was so expensive, they needed something cost-effective, substantial and filling to pair with the rice," says Rohini Alamgir, Community Manager at Mongabay by day and a sucker for biryani aloo by night.

When it comes to us, potatoes have also been ever-present for the greater part of the last century.

"Many believe potatoes are a recent addition to Dhaka's kacchi biryani, but I've spoken to veteran cooks who've been in the business for decades, and they insist that even the original kacchi biryani Fakruddin sold in the 60s included potatoes," quips Shafiqul Alam, full time biryani enthusiast and press secretary to the interim government of Bangladesh.

One look at Alam's Facebook timeline, you'll realise that the guy knows his biryani. He can't stop posting about them. He also believes potatoes became a staple in our culture in the last 60-70 years.

"Potatoes didn't become a nationwide staple, or a regular feature in biryanis, until the urban middle class began to grow," Alam explains. "Before that, biryani was rarely cooked in rural areas, and even when it was, potatoes were nowhere to be found."

Potato powerplay

The question remains—what makes the aloo in biryani so special that it has endured for decades and continues to be a beloved addition? And just how passionate are people about it? 

The answer is simple—the flavour.

However, for Bangladeshi Australian Chef Rashedul Hasan, who knows a thing or two about kacchi biryanis, there's another aspect that takes precedence over the obvious flavour fandom that's associated with the biryani aloo.

"It starts with the look. A beautifully coloured and aromatic potato which doesn't crumble—who wouldn't want to eat that?" says the former Masterchef Australia contestant.

Apart from the look, the cellular characteristics of potatoes play a huge part in how flavourful it is and how well it retains the flavour of the entire dish.

"Potatoes are tubers, and as tubers, potatoes absorb flavours and fats really well, soaking in all the spices and trapping them within. Their unique cellular structure, with gaps that allow salt, seasoning, and spices to penetrate deeply, makes biryani aloo so irresistibly flavourful," explains Rohini.

Rohini isn't dismissing the role of meat in kacchi biryani—it brings its own rich flavours, fats, and marination, and the entire dish cooks harmoniously with it. 

"The potato is the flavour hub of the biryani. Sure, the meat makes it great, but it's the potato that carries the flavour. If the potato isn't cooked all the way through or doesn't taste good, it takes away half the experience," she says.

Perhaps that's what fuels the obsession with biryani aloo. After speaking with a few waiters and caterers at various biryani restaurants and catering services, many shared stories of diners willingly paying extra just to get a few more pieces of potato. Some even go so far as to request no khashir mangsho at all, preferring to trade it in for those delicious, flavourful potato chunks instead.

How to make the perfect biryani aloo

Of course, we couldn't leave you without some expert tips on crafting the perfect biryani aloo. For this, we reached out to Rashedul Hasan, who recently wowed British celebrity chef Jamie Oliver and a few former MasterChef contestants with his decadent kacchi biryani at his Sydney restaurant, 'Ogni.' According to Rashedul, nearly everyone at the table declared it the best potato they'd tasted in a long time.

Before diving into the recipe, it's important to address some of the challenges in sourcing the right potatoes in Bangladesh.

"Many cooks have pointed out that the potatoes commonly available in Bangladesh have a high glucose content, which isn't ideal for biryani. They tend to caramelise quickly and fall apart during cooking," explains Alam.

Rashedul insists that capturing the true essence of biryani and its iconic biryani aloo requires a commitment to both time and effort. According to him, the overnight marination of the meat is the most time-intensive but essential step in the process.

"However, you could come up with a cheat way to recreate the potato in a quick time, because potatoes don't require the same marination period," he says. For starters, you need to fry the potato lightly before layering. Not all the way through, just a bit less than that. 

"It's ideal to use the same spice mix and seasoning that are used in the meat marination. Fry along with some caramelised onions, (beresta) and you can also add some dairy to it for added fats," he adds.