Can you tell the quality of a fabric?

My mother just needed one touch to say, "Fabrics like these don't last long." She was right. My new dress, meant for daily wear, had faded in streaks after just two washes.

Fabrics, the foundation of an outfit, can make or break your style. If you don't know what to look for, judging fabric quality can be hard. The first look is important, but how the fabric holds up over time matters just as much.

So, for your next shopping trip, here are some tips to keep in mind to help you judge an outfit through the quality of its fabric. 

The GSM of fabric

Many people's initial questions about their clothes often concern its GSM, or grams per square metre, which measures the weight of the fabric. When evaluating fabrics like knit fabric, GSM is a crucial factor as it determines the thickness or thinness of the fabric. A higher GSM indicates a heavier fabric, while a lower GSM indicates a thinner one.

Photo: Collected

However, Nahiyan Naser, the Founder and MD of Gorur Ghash, explains that relying solely on GSM to assess fabric is not the most effective approach. 

"There is a common misconception that a higher GSM equates to better fabric quality. A high GSM means the fabric will be heavier; doesn't necessarily indicate better quality. For instance, T-shirts tend to have GSM, but that does not guarantee quality."

"Nonetheless, if the GSM is too low, the fabric might stretch or become too thin after washing."

GSM varies across different fabrics, as it depends on the density of the fabric's fibres. For instance, since wool fibres are denser than cotton, their GSM values aren't directly comparable; wool will naturally feel heavier.

"Sometimes, even for jackets like our Harrington jackets, customers inquire about the GSM. However, the inner and outer fabrics are entirely different, so GSM might not accurately reflect the quality," said Naser.

While assessing a piece of fabric in your hands, check for defects such as holes, loose weaves in the middle, and fraying, which is an indication that the quality of the weaving is poor. Photo: Gorur Ghash

GSM also influences the stiffness of a fabric. When tailoring a suit, using a high GSM fabric helps maintain its structure and shape.

Colour bleeding

It can be frustrating when you buy an outfit for its vibrant colours and it fades after just a few washes. Assessing colour-fastness, the ability of a fabric to retain its colour over time, is challenging without testing. However, certain indicators, like the type of fabric, can help determine whether it will maintain its colour.

"It depends on the type, but polyester tends to bleed less compared to other fabrics," shared Naser. On the other hand, fabrics like silk are more likely to bleed, requiring extra care. Natural fabrics tend to fade with prolonged exposure to sunlight.

A significant factor in bleeding is the dye used. The colour and quality of the dye determine how long the outfit's vibrancy will last. For example, if you purchase a dress for its vibrant red colour, be aware that the fabric may not retain this hue after a few washes.

"Certain colours are more prone to bleeding. Light green, for instance, won't bleed as much as dark maroon," Naser explained.

However, Naser points out that bleeding is, in fact, inevitable. "In the first wash there will often be some bleeding. But if it bleeds after each wash, there is definitely something wrong with the fabric," said Naser.

Pilling is a problem

When a fabric's fibres start to loosen and break, they form small balls, which is known as pilling. This is sometimes a natural occurrence in fabrics like wool, but it can affect the appearance of an outfit. Although pilling is not the sole indicator of fabric quality, it is an important factor. Lower-quality fabrics or those with short fibres are more prone to pilling.

Photo: Collected

This tends to happen more often while the fabric is washed, especially if it is not handled with care. When shopping, check the fabric to see if it is pilling. If it already is, it is best to steer clear from it.

Naser said, "fabrics like flannel are susceptible to pilling only when exposed to excessive friction. Even during hand washing, excessive rubbing can impact the fabric's structure and lead to pilling."

The weave of the fabric

The pattern in which a fabric's threads are put together is called the weave, and it can determine the structural integrity and breathability of a fabric. Fabrics that use the plain weave, which is where the threads make a criss-cross pattern, are known to be quite durable. 

While assessing fabric, take note that a dense and tightly weaved fabric will prevent wear and tear during regular use.

While assessing a piece of fabric in your hands, check for defects such as holes, loose weaves in the middle, and fraying, which is an indication that the quality of the weaving is poor.

The age of the fabric is equally important. Harunur Rashid, Founder and Master Tailor at Faabrico, said, "When evaluating fabric for a premium suit or sherwani, it's important to inquire about its age. Older fabric tends to deteriorate over time, making it more prone to ripping."

All about the label

The small label inside a garment is the best way to learn more about your wardrobe. The label should indicate the fabric type and mix, as well as how to handle the garment during the cleaning process. 

The symbols on the label suggest the brand's recommended washing and drying methods based on the fabric's requirements. Common symbols include a water icon for machine wash, a circle for dry clean, and a triangle for bleach.

Adhering to these instructions can extend the lifespan of your fabric, especially if it's delicate.

Garments native to other countries, such as Japan's kurume kasuri, may require special care. In such cases, it is advisable to consult people from those countries for care tips, as their advice can offer more practical insights than the label.