Kanjivaram: Softness of silk enamoured in metallic sheen

With puja and the wedding season round the corner, fashionistas around the country are all geared to adorn themselves in a special kind of sarees that exudes a unique metallic sheen, unmatched by any of its contemporaries. 

Popularly known as Kanjivaram, this saree is crafted from the finest mulberry silk, a masterpiece that caresses your senses.

While brocades too lure everyone with its regal shimmer, as do jamdanis because of their texture and design, Kanjivaram stands out because of its feather-light touch and a texture as smooth as the gentlest breeze. It enchants both the wearer and onlookers.

Beneath its splendid exterior, fine zari threads with meticulous knots grace the underside. A subtle golden sheen plays hide and seek with the light, casting a kaleidoscope of colours.

These sarees are a canvas of unique patterns and motifs. Sometimes, intricate Mayil (peacock), Yaali (a divine mythical creature), Kuthirai (winged horse), or Iruthalai Pakhshi (two-headed bird) motifs adorn the entire saree or dance along its borders.

Photo: Farabi Tamal

Even if you adore the comfort of cotton or Kota sarees, the irresistible allure of silk, especially the resplendent Kanjivaram, is undeniable. Whether in pastel pink, molten gold, or vibrant maroon, these sarees redefine elegance.

If we look back, we find an enchanting piece of history behind the inception of this saree. Lores have it that Sage Markanda first wove silk from lotus fibres, a tradition that continues today. The mulberry silk hails from Karnataka, and the golden zari threads make their journey from Surat, Gujarat. 

Weddings often shimmer with sarees woven with gold or silver threads. Modern designs infuse them with shades, crystal beads, and exquisite embroideries.

In the heart of Tamil Nadu, lies Kanchipuram, the Silk City, where the Indian government recognised Kanjivaram silk as a Geographical Indication in 2005. This legacy spans centuries.

The significance and struggles of Kanjivaram weavers found cinematic expression in Priyadarshan's 2008 Tamil film, 'Kanchivaram.' It's a tribute to the artistry and resilience woven into every Kanjivaram.

Beyond borders, Kanjivaram captures the hearts of saree connoisseurs in Bangladesh. While Benarasi Palli in Mirpur is the place where almost all shops have a plethora of collections of Kanjivaram, in Gulshan, Khan Brothers, a top fashion house, imports Kanjivaram sarees starting at Tk50,000, with demand surging during wedding seasons.

There are many saree connoisseurs who love to opt for Kanjivaram instead of Katan or Benarasi saree on their D-day. 

Rummana Ferdous Fagun is one such bride. Her wedding attire was a testament to the elegance of a red and golden Kanjivaram. Paired with a golden dupatta and a matching blouse, it exuded a sophisticated, matte finish and a feather-light feel.

"In addition to my wedding saree, I own several monochrome Kanjivaram sarees. I consider them a more practical and subtly elegant option, compared to glossy katan sarees. These sarees, by themselves, make a bold fashion statement, requiring minimal worry about accessories to complete your look," said Fagun.

While wearing a traditional saree, don't hesitate to try a unique and trendy draping for extra verve. Photo: Farabi Tamal

Celebrities like Rekha, Vidya Balan, and Deepika Padukone have graced occasions with stunning Kanjivaram sarees. Musical legend Usha Uthup's collection of over 600 sarees, including a mauve Kanjivaram adorned with gold hamsa motifs, is a testament to its timeless appeal.

Safa Anjum, another fashionista, attests to the grace Kanjivaram imparts, especially on special occasions. "Lightweight and easy to pleat, they redefine comfort and style," she states.

But why should you own one of these exquisite pieces? 

Every Kanjivaram is a unique masterpiece, carefully woven with a separate body and zari border, joined so securely that even if the saree tears, the border endures.

Traditional designs like temples, checks, stripes, and buttas grace the borders, while patterns evoke the charm of leaves, birds, and animals, including rudraksha beads, peacock eyes, and nightingale eyes.

Kanjivaram is your canvas to create an elegant and highly fashionable look. Embrace the gold sheen and zari border, cleverly pairing them with the right blouse and accessories to make a show-stopping entrance.

These sarees are heirlooms that withstand the test of time. Passed down from generation to generation, they carry with them the legacy of artistry and tradition.

For those who are willing to buy one for the upcoming season of continuous wedding or holud nights, be smart not to get hoodwinked by the sweet-talking sellers. Beware of counterfeit Kanjivaram sarees, even in India. Genuine mulberry silk feels soft to the touch, and authentic zari threads have knots on the underside. 

Authentic stores like Khan Brothers, Preeti Modi, and Preali are situated around Gulshan 2 and sell sarees starting from Tk20,000 onwards. 

Photo: Farabi Tamal

For those who reside in the southern part of the city, Gawsia and Chandi Chawk market are the best places to purchase your favourite Kanjivaram saree. Benarasi Palli too, will be a good spot to check out many stores to find the perfect match for your taste or occasion. Prices in the last two places are relatively more affordable due to the mass footfall of buyers they experience. 

And those who want to enjoy the actual shopping experience while embracing a touch of history and heritage, consider a visit to Kanchipuram, a city famous for its temples and silk. India's rich silk heritage and the unmatched allure of South Indian silk await your exploration.

Besides wearing, maintaining one's Kanjivaram silk saree too is an art in itself. The cardinal rules are as follows: 

1. Dry clean only; water and soap harm the silk's texture.

2. Store it separately in a cotton or muslin bag, away from sunlight.

3. Periodically air it out to keep it fresh.

4. Avoid naphthalene or air fresheners; use neem leaves or silica gel bags.

5. Fold the saree with care to protect the zari borders.