Fakinni Bazaar: Providing ‘affordable’ access to essentials
The decades-old kitchen market tucked away in Tejgaon has proven to be a lifeline for many city dwellers against skyrocketing commodity prices by offering essentials at ‘impossible’ low prices
Sharifa Begum carefully explored the entire market, comparing prices between shops. After evaluating the best deals, she finally bought eggplants, cucumbers, green bananas and radishes from one shop.
Handing the vendor a Tk50 note, she even received Tk10 back as change.
In today's economy, where the prices of products are skyrocketing, buying so many vegetables at such a low cost sounds almost impossible. But Tejgaon's "Fakinni Bazaar" offers commodities at 'impossible' low prices.
A Tk50 note can easily buy you onions, garlic, lentils, turmeric and chilli powder – with each item averaging at Tk10. No, you haven't travelled back to the era of Shaista Khan, nor have prices suddenly dropped. This is exactly the distinct feature of this market: People from the surrounding lower-income areas can come here to buy essential goods at significantly lower prices.
Sharifa has been a long-time customer coming here for nearly two decades; and lives nearby for a longer period of time.
Earlier, Sharifa used to shop at Kawran Bazaar but soon the prices there became difficult to keep up with so she made the switch to this market.
She has a big family with her husband and five children. Her husband works as a van driver. Although Sharifa used to work in a garment factory, she can no longer do so due to age. The family manages to get by with the earnings of her husband and sons from driving vans.
"This market is the reason we are still surviving. No one thinks about our situation. Prices keep increasing, but here, we can still get things for a lower price. That's why we've been able to manage all these years," Sharifa told TBS.
The origin story
Located next to the railway tracks in East Nakhalpara in Tejgaon, Fakinni Bazaar may sound odd but it is certainly a godsend for low-income families.
From the main road of East Nakhalpara, a narrow alley leads you to the market. Walking through the dusty lane, you'll find an open field crossed by railway tracks. The market is primarily situated along these tracks. Another section of the market extends underneath a flyover bridge.
As you enter the market, you'll immediately notice the activity of the small shops, each one busy and bustling with customers. There are nearly a hundred shops, constructed with bamboo poles and covered with tin or plastic sheets.
Stories about the market's origins vary. Some claim it has existed for 40 years while others believe it has been running for over 50 years.
Mohammad Alauddin, 78, recalls moving to Dhaka from Narsingdi shortly after the country's independence and settling in this area. Initially, he ran a tea stall. For the past 35 years, he has been running his business in this market and according to him, the market is around 40–45 years old.
Another shopkeeper, Rizia Begum, in her 60s, has been doing business in this market for 30 years. She said, "There used to be a large slum in this entire area. Now, with the flyover, the slum has been cleared. The women from the slum would bring goods from Kawran Bazar and sell them here. In my estimation, this market must be at least 40 years old."
There are also various stories about the market's name. Mohammad said, "In the past, beggars would come here to buy essentials with the money they get from begging. The prices were lower, so beggars would come here more. That's how it got the name Fakinni Bazar."
Rizia explained that the Tokai women would bring vegetables gathered from Kawran Bazar and sell them to beggars here. This is how the name originated.
However, grocery shopkeeper Noor Alam said, "A long time ago, beggars from this area would bring rice, lentils and vegetables bought from wholesale markets and sell them here. Low-income people would buy these products at cheaper prices. That's how the market became known as Fakinni Bazaar among the locals."
Selling in portions and retail quantities
At the front of each shop in the market, you'll find some chopped vegetables, broken eggs and wilted bunches of greens neatly displayed. In some shops, vegetables are divided into portions and sold as "bhaga." The price depends on the condition of the vegetables.
For example, one portion of bitter gourd, green bananas, cucumbers, potatoes, radishes and eggplants costs Tk10. If the vegetables are in better condition, the price can go up to Tk15–20.
Each portion typically contains about a kilogram of vegetables. Eggs are sold in plastic bags, with cracked eggs being broken and packed into these bags. A dozen eggs are priced at Tk30–35.
There are also grocery shops throughout the market where you can buy various spices, oil, rice and dried fish, depending on your budget. For Tk10 taka, you can buy lentils, cumin, mustard seeds, coriander powder, chilli powder, turmeric powder, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, black pepper and other spices. These are arranged in small packets.
If someone wants to buy oil by the "chhotak" (small measure), it's sold that way too. So, buyers can come and purchase whatever quantity they can afford, whether it's two chhotaks, four chhotaks (233 grams), or any amount within their budget.
The same rule applies to rice as well. If someone wants to buy half a kilogram of rice, that option is available here.
In other words, the real attraction of this market lies in the "price" and "quantity" of the items. You will be given the exact quantity that you can afford to buy, no more, no less.
Nur Alam – a vendor selling potatoes, onions, and garlic at the market – said, "Sometimes people come and say, 'Brother, give me just two onions,' and we do. We sell it based on the weight and take the price accordingly. Even if someone wants just two potatoes, we provide that. The reason is that most of the people who come here are poor."
Where do these goods come from? "Around 4 or 5 in the morning, we go to Kawran Bazar to buy these items. We bring them here and arrange everything. We sell from 7 in the morning until 7 or 8 at night," replied Nur.
This market remains busy seven days a week.
'A blessing for people like us'
Who are the customers these days? "People from all walks of life come here these days. See those buildings around here? The people living there all buy from this market. Some even come in their cars and fill up bags with whatever they need. Ironically, it's us, the poor, who come less often," replied the elderly Alauddin, with a gentle smile.
However, Rizia has a different perspective. According to her, the market is mainly crowded with lower-income people. In the late afternoon, they increase in number and return home with their hands full of groceries.
She also mentioned that other classes (the middle class / upper class) have started coming more frequently.
We didn't have to wait long to verify. We met Khadija Akter (pseudonym), a regular customer. She visits the market every Friday to buy vegetables and shared that she frequently comes here because the market offers good-quality vegetables at affordable prices.
She said, "If you know how to pick, you can get really good vegetables at a lower price. For middle-class people like us, this market is a great option for saving money while getting quality produce. It benefits them, and it saves us some money, too."
Once upon a time, this market covered a much larger area. Now, it has been divided into four sections, each with its own name: Paglapur, Baulbagh, Khelaghar Maath and Brijtola. Together, these sections form the four branches of Fakinni Bazaar.
As the market has shrunk, so have the earnings of its vendors. With a hint of regret, Rizia shared, "We used to make better profits 20 years ago. Back then, I could buy 20–25 kilograms of carrots for Tk200, but now it costs Tk60–70 per kilogram."
She believes the decline in customers is the main reason for reduced profits. Previously, nearby residents relied on this market for essentials, their only shopping option. After the slums were demolished, the number of buyers dropped significantly.
Despite these challenges, the vendors of Fakinni Bazaar, like Rizia, continue to work here, holding on to hope for a better life.
On the other hand, for customers, it is a way to save money.
"If this market didn't exist, many people would starve, brother. It's because of this place that we can still afford to eat. Is it even possible for us to buy vegetables with Tk80-90? Here, we can get vegetables for only Tk10–15. This market is a blessing for people like us," said rickshaw puller Rafique.