Chemical management use is must to improve workers health safety, pollution control and lowering operation cost in pursuit of a sustainable textile sector: Experts

Chemical and textile experts stressed the need for improved chemical management in the textile sector, highlighting that sustainable growth requires better chemical practices, increased energy efficiency, and reduced pollution to make the industry more resilient and eco-friendly.

They shared these insights during a roundtable titled "Textile Pollution Control and Improving Workers' Occupational Health and Safety Through Chemical Management", jointly organised by The Business Standard (TBS), Solidaridad, and ESTex on 25 November. The experts noted that while the apparel industry is the backbone of Bangladesh's economy, it significantly contributes to environmental pollution and greenhouse gas emissions. The event, held at the TBS office in Eskaton, Dhaka, was moderated by TBS's head of digital, Zahid Newaz Khan.

Solidaridad, a global network organisation supported by the Dutch government, is working to enhance the sustainability of Bangladesh's apparel sector. It is developing chemical management training modules aimed at improving occupational health and safety, optimising chemical use, and reducing risks and accidents to promote safer industrial practices. To develop these modules, Solidaridad partnered with ESTex Foundation, a technical partner specialised in industrial sustainability and environmental management through research, training, and advisory services.

According to Bangladesh Bank data, Bangladesh imported chemical and allied products worth around $7.50 billion in FY23, accounting for 12.2% of the country's total annual imports. Experts and industry stakeholders highlight that the export-oriented garments and textile sector discharges chemicals worth billions of dollars annually during fabric dyeing processes, imposing a significant financial burden for treatment via Effluent Treatment Plants (ETPs).  

SELIM REZA HASAN
Country Manager, Solidaridad

Bangladesh textile and apparel industry is now in a matured stage after expiring lot of setbacks like the Rana Plaza disaster. The sector is now in the verge of addressing the social nd environmental sustainability. Transition to a more sustainable and responsible business practices are now key for the industry to remain competitive in the global market. Unsustainable use of chemicals is polluting our eco-system and causing health hazards. Towards promoting cleaner production practices, improving occupational health safety of the workers, as well as protection of the ecosystem services, chemical management has become inevitable. Reduction of pollution load from the industry, it is important to follow specific guidelines for chemical use and recycle.

Solidaridad in collaboration with ESTex developed chemical measurement modules to promote the use of biodegradable and environment friendly chemicals for safer and more sustainable production practices aligned with the national and international policies and regulations. It will guide efficient use of chemicals, a cleaner, safer and more sustainable production process in alignment with the principles of environmental responsibility and improvement in occupational health safety. It is also aligned with the international chemical standards, including the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC).

By implementing the training modules, chemical use will be optimized to reduce risks of chemicalrelated incidents, a transformation will take place for the industry for zero liquid discharge to make the industry more environmental sustainable. 

Keynote Presenter
PROFESSOR DR MOHIDUS SAMAD KHAN
Department of Chemical Engineering, BUET

Bangladesh uses chemicals across various sectors, including garments, textiles, food, and cosmetics, with the textile sector being the largest consumer. Our textile factories import over 400 chemicals from more than 40 countries. Every year we spend billions of dollars importing chemicals related to our apparel sector. Therefore, it is important to ensure the best use of chemicals and proper chemical management in the supply chain of apparel manufacturing.

Bangladesh's textile industry is about 40 years old. Our main strength in ready-made garments lies in our workforce and climate. What we achieve here is unparalleled anywhere else in the world. However, we must pay attention to the environmental impact of our apparel sector.

A significant amount of chemicals used in the textile dyeing process go to waste, as not all chemicals are absorbed by the fabric. Raising chemical management awareness among workers is crucial. It is also important to ensure that proper training to different stages of factory management, operational teams, storage in-charge and procurement team to ensure right sourcing, usage and disposal of chemicals. The key sustainability principles are to eliminate waste and pollution, circular products, and regenerate nature.

KAMRAN SADIQ
Director, Cutting Edge Industries Limited, MBM Group

Textiles are the lifeline of Bangladesh, directly involving 2 million people. There should be no compromise when it comes to safety in this sector. Safety encompasses building structures, electrical safety, fire safety, and everything else – together forming a comprehensive safety package, which we can call a "safe industry". The major challenges here are awareness and capacity building. Complete safety in the workplace and across sectors requires addressing all aspects of safety. All sectors must collaborate to improve safety.

The key issues with chemical use are the lack of awareness and proper training. In the last decade, the RMG sector has made tremendous progress in sustainability, compliance and governance. To move forward, we must implement the PDCA method (plan, develop, comply, act). It's not just about training mid-level chemical officers but all stakeholders involved.

Our economy is around $500 billion, with key sectors including textiles (both export-oriented and local), leather & leather goods, shipbuilding, transportation, steel and construction, pharmaceuticals, brick fields, etc. A major issue is the lack of a central database that tracks and monitors environmental pollution by sector, industry, and company. Without such a system, there is a perception that the export-oriented RMG/textile industry is the greatest contributor to environmental pollution. However, these export-oriented industries already adhere to strict international regulatory policies, unlike local textile industries that produce clothing for the 200 million people of Bangladesh, which often operate under much less stringent regulations. If we compare the emissions and pollution contributions of these sectors against their GDP share, a clearer picture would emerge.

The current challenge is that the sector-wise industries have no benchmarks to assess their environmental performance, and lack a centralized system to track pollution and chemical discharge. Best practices come with a cost: by categorizing companies into levels like gold, silver, or bronze based on their environmental compliance, a tiered system can be created where the top tier companies receive incentives, driving the industry to adopt and maintain strong environmental standards.

ALI ASRAF KHAN
Sustainability and Value Chain Advisor, Embassy of Denmark, Bangladesh

It is undeniable that chemical safety is crucial for workers' health and safety, the environment, and the communities living near factories. The consequences of inadequate chemical safety and management at production facilities are severe: workers have died, rivers have been polluted, and fishing communities have lost their livelihoods, to name just a few. With the emerging legislation under the European Green Deal, it is expected that companies will increasingly address chemical safety and management risks in their supply chains. While Bangladeshi legislation and policies on occupational safety and health are relatively well-aligned with international standards, there is still a need to improve compliance and enforcement of these laws and regulations.

The Department for Inspection of Factories and Establishments (DIFE) has taken several initiatives to improve chemical management with support from Denmark. A few examples include: The establishment of an expert group on chemical safety within DIFE. The development of labour inspection guidelines and checklists for chemical safety. The National Occupational Safety and Health Training Institute (NOSHTRI) has developed and is offering training courses on chemical safety for the industry. Such training programs are essential for raising awareness and building capacity across the industry.

Let's continue working collectively to ensure that Bangladesh meets the highest international standards for chemical safety and management, for the sake of our workers, communities, and the environment, as well as our continued competitiveness. We cannot afford to slow down our efforts on chemical safety enhancement. 

NADIA AFRIN SHAMS
Team Leader, BYETS, Swisscontact

If we truly want to build capacity, we must focus on middle management. When we looked at the market, we realised that if we don't focus on capacity building in our industry by 2026, we will fall behind. In our survey, 95% of respondents highlighted the need for training. Currently, 65% of our RMG market relies on Europe, and failing to enhance capacity could result in losing 50% of this market. A collaborative approach, including an ESG report, is essential.

Awareness must be raised through small-scale technical training models, addressing challenges like COVID-19 disruptions. We need to bring industries into ESG compliance. Developing our workforce is key; without it, we won't easily overcome the challenges ahead. The BGMEA must prioritise this issue and negotiate with industries. Until our industries are pushed to take action, we won't fully realise the urgency. Alongside this, workforce development must be a priority. 

DR EASIR ARAFAT KHAN
Associate Professor, Department of Chemical Engineering, BUET

There is no alternative to education when it comes to chemical management. The chemicals we use have a monetary value. Among the chemicals being used, some are hazardous. We need to critically evaluate question whether these hazardous chemicals are truly necessary. In the case of occupational hazards, around 85% of deaths in the country are caused by chemical- related occupational diseases, while and 15% are due to accidents. For example, we see workers in factories developing cancer.

It is important to closely monitor whether workplace hygiene is being maintained in the workplace. For instance, when producing 25 kg of naphthalene, 5 kg of materials evaporate into the air. With new technology, the chemicals lost to the air are now being recovered. This has prevented losses worth hundreds of thousands of taka each month. If such advanced technologies are used in chemical handling, it will be possible to recover the chemicals used. At the same time, environmental pollution will decrease, and company profits will increase simultaneously. 

SHUVRA ROY
Director, Certification, National Skill Development Authority (NSDA)

National Skill Development Authority (NSDA), focuses on building a skilled workforce, particularly addressing the shortage of professionals in chemical management within the RMG sector. Proper training is crucial to effectively utilise human resources. While private organisations have conducted various training programmes, many lack alignment with industry needs.

To streamline efforts, NSDA acts as an umbrella organisation, coordinating and integrating these initiatives under its framework, aligning them with existing laws and curricula. NSDA monitors and evaluates these programmes to ensure quality and relevance. Collaborating with industry bodies like BGMEA and BKMEA, NSDA designs curricula based on industry requirements, particularly for chemical management, identifying specific training needs. These training programmes are delivered through various centres in coordination with relevant stakeholders, ensuring effective, industry-aligned training modules.

This collaborative approach enhances workforce development and addresses critical skill shortages in the sector. 

FAUZIA SULTANA
Managing Director, ESTex

ESTex and Solidaridad recently organised a survey and a webinar, where most participants anonymously agreed that Bangladesh has the potential to become a leader in sustainable practices. However, it is essential to recognise the challenges we face. We must shift our approach from being reactive to proactive. It should not require pressure from buyers or regulatory authorities to follow guidelines; we must do so for our own betterment. 

MOHAMMAD ABDULLAH YOUSUF KHAN
Programme Manager, Textile and Apparel, Solidaridad

After the Rana Plaza incident, safety in the garment sector became a priority for everyone. Similarly, certain incidents related to chemical use have raised awareness in this area. For instance, the Bhopal gas tragedy in India prompted a global emphasis on chemical management. Organizations like Greenpeace have also played a pivotal role in advocating for safer chemical practices, raising awareness about hazardous substances, and pushing for policies that prioritize environmental and human health.

In Bangladesh, the Department of Environment is making progress on drafting chemical safety rules, which is a positive step. As chemical manufacturers increasingly establish operations and invest in the country, robust regulatory frameworks become essential. To attract further investment in chemical manufacturing, it is crucial to develop and enforce comprehensive rules that are aligned with international standards. These regulations will not only ensure safety and sustainability but also create a level playing field for industries. International companies will undoubtedly prioritise maintaining global standards in their workplaces. To bridge this gap, comprehensive management practices must align local markets with international standards.

We must focus not only on textile chemicals but also on the management of chemicals in other industries. Introducing innovative solutions, and ensuring effective waste treatment practices are essential steps. Collaboration among all stakeholders is vital to achieving these goals and fostering sustainable progress.

SHAKIL AHAMED
Adviser, BEETLSL and Dhaka International University

There should be a unified set of occupational health and safety rules. While policies exist, the rules need to be strengthened. The primary focus must be on improving workers' conditions. Even if it cannot be achieved all at once, a gradual approach is necessary. Common safety practices should be adopted universally. The principle of "safety first" should not just be a slogan; it must be ingrained in everyone's mindset. For industries aiming to improve compliance, there should be clear benchmarks in place. When workers thrive, the industry prospers. Often, we overly focus on costs, but with a combined approach, short-term expenses should not be a concern. It is far better than facing major accidents. Safety costs should be viewed as an investment rather than an expenditure. 

MOHAMMAD MONOWER HOSSAIN
Head of Sustainability, Team Group

There are over two hundred training centres in garment factories. They seek support from the National Skill Development Authority (NSDA) to enhance skills. When it comes to chemical use, we should follow global practices. When we purchase chemicals, we check to ensure they do not contain harmful ingredients. Using a software, we can verify this for a fee. No one can directly purchase chemicals without going through several steps. We have established a reasonable capacity in managing chemical exports, but where we lack capacity is in the subsequent stages. 

SHAHAN REZA
Industry Expert

If we can control the primary sources of chemical pollution, a significant part of the safety concerns will be addressed. Collaborating with institutions like BUET and other organisations across the country can help us find practical solutions effectively and efficiently. However, this requires proper training. Greater emphasis must be placed on chemical manufacturers rather than just textile manufacturers. Cost is a critical factor, and coordination plays a vital role in addressing this issue. When chemicals are imported from various countries, implementing a control mechanism at import that stage can help assign responsibility for hazardous chemicals. It is also essential to identify which state agency will take charge of addressing the health hazards associated with these chemicals.

SHAJEDUL ISLAM MARUF
DGM, Sustainability Department, Beximco

In textile dyeing, 70% of chemicals are discarded, wasting resources worth billion dollars. Currently neutralised in ETPs, these chemicals, including caustic soda, salt, and indigo, can be recovered and reused. Using multifunctional and sensitive chemicals can reduce pollution and improve efficiency, aiding net-zero goals. Industry-specific R&D is important for sustainable practices. Additionally, occupational safety in garments, a long-discussed issue, often neglects its financial implications. Proactive steps are vital to achieve the chief adviser's three-zero and net zero vision. 

ZIAUR RAHMAN MUKUL
Managing Director, Color Style

Chemical usage in the textile industry poses significant health hazards, yet efforts to address these issues remain inadequate. The local textile sector, serving a market over $20 billion, lacks proper regulations and attention to workers' safety. Even export-oriented industries often fall short in raising awareness about chemical safety among workers. As the industry targets $100 billion in exports, addressing chemical management is crucial. A well-defined system for managing chemical use must be integrated to tackle these challenges effectively. 

MARUF MOHAIMEN
Waste and Chemical Management Section, Department of Environment

Institutional capacity building is underway across various sectors, but those directly involved in these activities must first undergo proper training. Without raising awareness among them, any initiatives, no matter how well-designed, are unlikely to yield significant results. During industry visits, it is often observed that factories have Effluent Treatment Plants (ETPs), but their electricity bills are as low as Tk200 per month, indicating that the ETPs are not in operation. These facilities are only activated during inspections by the Department of Environment or other agencies. Bangladesh has a vast reserve of freshwater, much of which is heavily utilised by the textile sector. However, there is little focus on the environmental and economic losses resulting from this. We are currently working on a rule for establishing TSDF (Treatment, Storage and Disposal Facility of Hazardous Waste) to treat waste generated by different process including textile process.It is expected that the rules will be finalised by 2025. 

MASUD RANA SHAHIN
General Manager, W3RS

Many factories' ETPs face challenges treating non-biodegradable particles. Partnering with chemical suppliers can enhance chemical quality and sustainability. Since 2010, workable ETPs have improved, but local textile practices, especially using heavy-metal dyes for lungis and gamchas, remain unchecked, polluting rainwater and the environment. Industries often lack resources to address this, require government intervention and promoting eco-friendly dyes for sustainable practices.

ZAHID NEWAZ KHAN
Head of Digital, The Business Standard

Thank you all for participating in such an important roundtable discussion. When it comes to chemicals, there are two key aspects to consider: health hazards and environmental impact. While regulatory bodies have their responsibilities, the industry itself must also take action to ensure safety and mitigate hazards. Organisations like BGMEA and BKMEA are working in this area, but the extent of their efforts in research remains a topic of discussion. We need to focus on green investments. The current interim government is considering this issue and actively encouraging investors to prioritise green investment initiatives. We hope that, over time, these hazards will be minimized progressively.