Mukta Biryani: the best place for duck roast and pigeon bhuna
Since its inception in 1986, Mukta Biryani has won the hearts of food lovers in a short time with its secret recipes
When we reached Khilgaon Tilpapara Harabhanga junction, it was about 3 o'clock in the afternoon. A number of biryani shops surrounded us, but we were looking for one in particular: Mukta Biryani.
Soon, we learned that there were two Mukta Biryani Ghars. Which one would we go to? After asking around, we found out that two brothers were running the two restaurants. We then opted to go to the old one.
Although the signature item at Mukta Biryani Ghar was their beef chaap, but on this crisp wintry afternoon we were in the mood for a duck roast and a whole pigeon bhuna.
Keep updated, follow The Business Standard's Google news channel
We still had no idea what the food would be like. There were plenty of people in the restaurant at the time. Among those, when we spotted a foreigner we breathed a sigh of relief.
Because there must be something special about this restaurant if someone decided to dine there after travelling across the seven seas.
But would we even get the duck and the pigeon that we wanted? We were lucky enough, it seemed, as both the items were available.
After ordering, we made our way to the table seating our foreign guests. They were a team of seven and were almost at the end of their meal.
We learned that they were here to make a documentary and had come to eat here during their break. They were brought to the restaurant by a local man named Sohel.
Sohel told us that he had been living in this area for 13 years. We asked him why he came to this restaurant instead of any of the seemingly hundreds of Biryani shops in Khilgaon.
He told us that the taste of food here was better than in any of the others. He also said he frequently comes here and had decided to bring the others too.
Looking at one of the guests from the Netherlands, we discovered that almost half of the food remained on his plate. We asked if he did not enjoy the food. His answer left us with fits of laughter. The lack of spice in the restaurant actually meant that he really liked the food!
Taste check
Having heard so much praise from everyone about the food, the hunger pangs began to hit us hard. Finally, our hot plates of pulao, duck roast and pigeon bhuna arrived. Along with those, we were also served some zarda, borhani and salad.
We were surprised to learn that despite being such a famous eatery, no food was actually cooked in the restaurant. The food was made at home and brought here. This was also the reason why the waiting time for getting your order was so little.
Seeing the big chunks of meat on my plate served, I already felt satisfied. Mukta Biryani had increased their prices only last month. Even with the increase, the price of pulao and one whole pigeon was Tk200 per plate, which seemed quite appropriate to us.
Seeing the colour of the duck and the pigeon, our mouths began to instantly water. Those who are health conscious may feel a little hesitant, but rice with this broth would surely make up for it.
After mixing the broth with the steaming rice, I had my first bite. It tasted brilliant, and was not too spicy either. Unlike in other places, the duck's meat was not too hard. In fact, it was quite tender.
The polao was gleaming white, while the pigeon bhuna looked a little dark but it tasted amazing.
If someone wants more spice, then green chillies are available. The salad included lemon, chillies and cucumbers.
They serve food in ample quantities. And the perfect way to complete the meal was the sweet zarda. The borhani, however, tasted a little watery.
The service was exemplary. Despite the large crowds, they were taking people's orders without missing a beat.
The history of Mukta Biryani
Thirty-five years ago, the Mukta Biryani Ghar was established by Md Nizamuddin Khan aka Khan Shaheb. Before the liberation war, he had another restaurant called Nizamuddin Hotel in the capital's Fulbaria bus stand. There, they sold plain white rice, fish, chicken and beef of different kinds, alongside most homemade deshi dishes.
Khan Shaheb was an expert in cooking beef. In a short time, as its fame spread, crowds of people would throng the eatery.
But during the liberation war, the occupying Pakistani forces took over Fulbaria bus stand. Nizamuddin managed to escape with his family, and while he managed to save himself, Nizamuddin Khan could not save his house or his shop.
After independence, he took up another job, but could barely concentrate. His old job kept tugging at his heart, calling him back.
And so Mukta Biryani Ghar, named after Nizamuddin's youngest daughter, was started again in January 1987 in a small shop under Rani Building in Tilpapara, Khilgaon. It began by only selling beef chaap and polau, but its popularity grew fast based on the strength of its secret recipe.
Nizamuddin would run the whole operations alone at first, with some help from his wife. But as the restaurant's popularity grew, he hired an assistant cook.
That cook is still working at the restaurant. However, it is the younger son Arman Khan who runs most of the operation. From cooking to down to the last detail, Nizamuddin taught Arman everything about the business.
The restaurant staff are also treated like family, which explains their dedication.
Since the death of Nizamuddin Khan in 2014, his son and grandson have been taking care of Mukta Biryani Ghar. Arman Khan also expanded the restaurant by taking up a bigger space in the same area.
Akram Khan, another son of Nizamuddin Khan, started a separate shop called Mukta Biryani Ghar. However, the specialty there is the beef tehari.
The current scenario
The main items of the restaurant are the beef chaap and polau costing Tk160, the duck roast and polau at Tk200, whole pigeon and polau at Tk200, special kacchi at Tk180, borhani at Tk30 per glass and zarda at Tk30 per plate.
The beef chaap is the most sold among all the items.
A whole cow is needed almost every day for the daily beef items. Beef is bought from the local butcher shop. The chickens are bought from Khilgaon. Poultry, pigeons and mutton are bought from Karwan Bazaar.
Meat is prepared by 8 o'clock in the morning. The main cooking is done outside the restaurant. The staff arrive at around 9 o'clock and the next two-three hours are spent cleaning the restaurant.
While they start serving food from 12 pm, the restaurant stays open till 11pm. The dishes are cooked twice a day: lunch and dinner.
Ten staff are currently employed and they keep their attention on ensuring cleanliness.
Jannat, a regular customer here, complained about the increase in prices of all food items since last December. He said, "I used to come here regularly to eat Mukta Biryani Beef Chaap-Polau. But lately the price of food has gone up a lot."
Arman Khan, on the price increase, said, "After a two-year hike in prices, I have had to raise the prices of all kinds of food. Rent and staff salaries have also gone up. If the cost goes up so much, there is no way but to increase the price of food".
Fahim Hasan, who came from Dhanmondi for the first time after hearing the fame of Mukta Biryani, said, "According to the food here, the price seems right to me. The food tastes very good."
Arman Khan said that Ashraful, a former cricketer of Bangladesh national team from Khilgaon, comes here often to eat.
"Bangla band music legend Ayub Bachchu once told us that the taste here is quite different from other places," said Arman.
Mukta Biryani Ghar also caters for different events.
They cook less so that food is not wasted. Arman concluded by saying that occasionally the leftover food is distributed among the poor in the area.
