From red sharis to pastel lehengas: The new face of Bangali bridal wear
From Benarasi Palli's vibrant displays to bespoke brands offering customisation, TBS takes an in-depth look at the evolving lehenga scene
While the red benarasi shari has historically been the quintessential bridal attire in Bengali weddings, the past two decades have witnessed a significant rise in the popularity of lehengas. Credits to the popularity of Indian daily soaps in the early 2000s and later the influence of social media and the internet.
Sharmin Yasmin got married in 2002. In 2001, the famous Bollywood movie 'Kabhi Khushi Kabhie Gham' was released and the song 'Bole Chudiyan' became an anthem in every household.
"I was fascinated with the pastel lehenga of Kareena Kapoor in the song and wanted a similar one for my wedding. But both my family and in-laws firmly opposed the concept of wearing a lehenga, that too in a light colour, so I had to wear a maroon katan shari," she reminisced.
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But nowadays, pastel lehengas in wedding ceremonies and receptions are very common. Furthermore, bright-coloured lehengas have almost become a staple for holuds.
"Weddings are no longer a day event. It has transformed into a weeklong festival, starting from Sangeet to Walima. Brides who opt for three to four wedding programmes, usually keep lehenga at least in one program, if not more," said Muntaka Mehzabin, a general practitioner at Ibn Sina Medical College and Hospital, who got married this year.
Muntaka wore a lehenga in both her mehendi and reception. To mix things up, she wore a sharara on her holud. "Wearing sharis on every occasion is just boring," she opined.
The versatility
"For me, the best part of owning a lehenga is its blouse. I can wear it later with sharis too," said Sumaiya Tahsin, a student at North South University and a fashion enthusiast.
"If you are good with mixing and matching, you can pair the skirt and dupatta with other outfits and create versatile looks," added Tahsin.
Nover Shamshed, another fashion enthusiast and fashion blogger, believes a lehenga is a more comfortable attire than a shari.
"Although lehenga can be heavy, it is easy to manage. It does not have to be pleated and there is no use for safety pins that you need to be mindful about," she said.
The add-ons
Although lehenga, regardless of being stitched or unstitched, comes in a full set and a complete design layout (blouse, skirt and dupatta), many individuals opt for some add-ons for a creative flare.
Elaborate tassels and laces are common add-ons to make your lehenga more gorgeous.
Muntaka wore a katan lehenga in her mehendi which had very little volume to it. Hence, she added another cancan for added volume.
You can even further embellish your lehenga with zardosi and gota patti work from Priyangon Shopping Center if you feel the design is very plain.
The local market
The local market is quite saturated with lehenga supplies. The Benarasi Palli of Mirpur area and Chandni Chawk can be marked as the city's lehenga hub.
Both of these places sell imported lehengas from India, and the price starts from Tk5,000 and goes up to a few lakhs.
Most of the lehengas there are unstitched or semi-stitched. Each shop has its enlisted tailors to make the lehengas according to buyers' sizes.
Most locally available lehengas are imported from India, and some are sourced from Islampur. You can find lehengas made of a variety of fabrics here, starting from the most popular net, organza, and georgette. Katan lehengas are also quite popular now.
"Lehengas are no longer limited to bridal wear. It is incredibly popular among the bridesmaids too. Pastel lehengas are the most popular now for partywear," said Mohammad Nayon, a sales representative of Adi Indian Silk at Benarashi Palli.
The art of bespoke lehengas
In today's bridal fashion, bespoke lehengas have become a symbol of luxury and personalisation, with brands like Safiya Sathi, Festivibe, JK Foreign Brands, Meher, Anzara, and Nazara leading the charge. While many offer ready-made collections with altered fittings, others stand out for their exclusive customisation.
Safiya Sathi, a pre-order-only brand, specialises in creating fully bespoke lehengas, taking 45 to 90 days to craft each piece, depending on the level of customisation and embellishments.
"In certain instances, brides ask for rare coloured fabrics, which are not available in the market. In that case, the team has to either import the material or dye other fabrics with that colour," said Safiya Akter, the founder and designer of Safiya Sathi.
Safiya offers detailed consultations for brides and encourages their clients to book their lehenga at least six months before the event. Known for wide flares, its fairy-tale-inspired lehengas range from Tk30,000 to Tk500,000.
For those prioritising perfect fittings and subtle embellishments, Festivibe is an ideal choice. The brand emphasises high-quality fabrics and tailored precision over heavy ornamentation, ensuring elegance in simplicity. Festivibe accommodates client visions with full design consultations and customisations, ensuring each lehenga embodies individuality.
