Weaving innovation into tradition: The story of the modern Panjabi

The Panjabi, also known as the long shirt or men's kurta, is a staple for men of all ages in Bangladesh. This traditional garment is a preferred choice for a variety of occasions, including Jumma or Eid ul-Fitr prayers, and family events or wedding rituals such as gaye holud or akdh ceremonies. Its ability to provide comfort and style has established the Panjabi as a go-to wardrobe for men seeking both tradition and trendiness.

Historically, white has been the predominant colour choice for Panjabis. However, the traditional plain Panjabi has evolved with the advent of printed fabrics. Once characterised by simple designs with embroidery limited to the collar, sleeve and placket, the modern Panjabi has embraced versatility and variety.

This transformation can largely be attributed to a new generation of designers and brands willing to innovate and take risks. By incorporating diverse patterns and vibrant colours, they have elevated the Panjabi from a basic garment to a statement piece. The result is a contemporary fashion staple that blends comfort with elegance, suitable for any occasion.

Zurhem's Maharajan Panjabis make a statement. Photo: Courtesy

Mehruz Munir, the creative director of the luxury brand Zurhem, effortlessly captured this sentiment. "I aspired to design Panjabis that transcend occasions," he reflected. 

"The existing options were lacklustre and uninspiring, with little to offer. It seemed no one had considered that this staple wardrobe piece was due for a reinvention. I sought to push boundaries and explore uncharted territory. Thus, in 2017, Maharajan, our signature Panjabi line, was born," Mehruz reminisced.

Alif Iqra Imam, the creative mind behind Luxe Atelier, shared a similar perspective. Alongside his partner, Shabab Nasir, they sought Panjabis that embodied versatility and affordability. However, they were confronted with the same monotonous collections from retail fashion brands and designers. 

"We embarked on crafting our first collection nearly two years ago," Alif recalled. "Gradually, we discovered that customers, too, were eager for fresh motifs and innovative designs in Panjabis, breaking away from the predictable," he stated with conviction.

Faisal Robin, the visionary founder of Nayro, wholeheartedly echoed his peers' sentiments, revealing the inspiration behind his brand. 

"I've always been captivated by historical elements, particularly the grandeur of subcontinental rajas and maharajas. I aspired to create something that would capture the essence of my imagination of that bygone era. Thus, Nayro was born four years ago," he reminisced. 

Luxe Atelier has incorporated motifs like birds and leaves in Panjabis. Photo: Courtesy

"We began modestly in Khilkhet, and now we've proudly established our presence in Banani," he stated with a sense of accomplishment.

Faisal and Alif also embraced their share of risks while reimagining Panjabis for millennials and Gen-Z. 

As Faisal Robin articulated, "Men's preferred colours often gravitate towards white and black. I personally favour white for its pristine aura. We began with just one artisan, and today, Nayro proudly employs a team of 40 craftsmen dedicated to creating the crowd-pleasing designs you see,"  Faisal shared with pride.

Nayro has almost revived the ancient art of taljali work, a unique needle technique using metal threads that was on the brink of extinction. 

"Collaborating with skilled artisans to reintroduce this on our Panjabis has brought me immense joy, and our clients have loved it as well. Even when our shop was small in Khilkhet, customers from Old Dhaka, Mirpur, and Banani came to us, provided the designs were unique and trendy," he added.

Among the trio, Alif, the youngest, envisioned the Panjabi as an artist's broad canvas. 

Photo: Courtesy

"If you look at our collections, you'll notice how we've infused motifs like birds and leaves," he remarked. 

"We've utilised cotton blends and intricate stitchwork, which have garnered widespread acclaim among our customers. Although we are just beginning and have many more experiments in store, the response has been incredibly inspiring for both me and my partner, Shabab."

The Panjabi, a staple of Bangladeshi tradition and style, has undergone a vibrant transformation. Once limited to simple white designs, it now serves as a versatile statement piece, thanks to the innovative efforts of designers like Mehruz Munir, Alif Iqra Imam, and Faisal Robin.

These visionaries have infused the Panjabi with fresh motifs, historical elegance, and cutting-edge embellishments, captivating a new generation of wearers. Their creations—from Zurhem's luxury to Luxe Atelier's versatility and Nayro's historical flair—have redefined the Panjabi, making it essential for any modern wardrobe.

This evolution highlights the power of creativity and the enduring appeal of cultural heritage, promising even more exciting innovations ahead.