Antarctica through the eyes of a Bangladeshi scientist

20 December 2023. Under the crystal blue sky and bright sunlight - just as the weather forecast had predicted - MV Vasiliy Golovnin, the blue ocean vessel, was waiting at the Cape Town harbour in South Africa for its last passengers.

The Russian cargo voyage was being overseen by a team of 42 crew members from M/S Fesco in Vladivostok. It had air support, facilitated by two helicopters: an Aerospatiale 350 B3 and a Kamov 32.

Old Vasiliy has been on this same route multiple times since the 1980s. The 156-metre seven-floor cargo was slated to carry fuel, food and other things for the two Indian stations in Antarctica, and Princess Elizabeth Island of Belgium. 

But more importantly, it was also taking 24 people to the "white continent" of the world. Among them, there were 13 scientists, one doctor, two chefs, two Indian navy officials, and six logistics professionals who would be helping the scientists. 

Dr Yogesh Ray, a 45-year-old Indian geologist and a scientist at the National Center for Polar and Ocean Research (NCPOR) of India, was leading the team. 

Out of hundreds of applications and proposals from scientists of the Colombo Security Conclave nations (India, Sri Lanka, Maldives and Mauritius), and observers (Bangladesh and Seychelles), the organisation finalised 13 proposals. 

Yogesh had been instructing the team since August. Now, after five months, he finally stepped onto the ship with the team. 

They were on their way to the 43rd Indian Scientific Expedition to Antarctica - embarking on a new journey of scientific research focusing on "climate change and its signatures in Antarctica."

Showmitra Chowdhury. Sketch: TBS

Showmitra Chowdhury, the only Bangladeshi in the team, was overwhelmed with the opportunity. It had been only 10 days since he left home in Bangladesh for this mission. From Dhaka to Delhi, then Goa, then Mumbai, and lastly Cape Town – the journey passed in the blink of an eye. 

But now that he was finally on the ship, he remembered how worried his mother was, and how she did not want him to board this cruise. Showmitra also remembered his wife, his little daughter and everyone else. 

For the next two months, he would get rationed internet service, only six minutes a month, to communicate with his family. But the unimaginable opportunity to work with scientists from around the world, do research and be on the white continent, was like a dream come true for this young ocean scientist. 

"It did not matter much, really. Once I got there, I forgot about my phone. Before going to Antarctica, I used to have a screen time of five to six hours a day. But now I feel I do not even need it," Showmitra said. 

His goal was to collect samples for studying the biological and environmental sustainability of Antarctica. 

He returned to Dhaka on 10 February this year, with more than 30 samples of rocks, water, faeces of seals, penguins and birds to study.  

A Bangali from Kolkata, Yogesh liked this young scientist. On their way to the Southern Sea, these two would watch and capture photos of antarctic birds from the bridge of the ship. 

Yogesh's ancestors are from Sylhet, his father still speaks the Sylheti dialect. With Showmitra, he would be practising the dialects during their past time when their ship got stuck in the icy ocean due to cyclones. 

But that is for later. For now, let us see who else was in the team. 

Sumit Kumar, a young geologist from India, was a part of the group. He is doing his PhD under the supervision of Yogesh. Sumit would study the geological features of Antarctica – roaming around the continent and studying the Amery Ice Shelf. 

This shelf was once a part of the Indian plate but later separated and merged with the Antarctic plate. Showmitra was paired with Sumit later, and these two 'buddies' did research, jumped on the Antarctic snow and waited together for helicopters to pick them up once they were finished.   

Prerna Roy and Anishta Audit-Manna, Associate Research Scientists from the Chemical Oceanography Unit at the Mauritius Oceanography Institute, were the only female boarders. These two were supposed to compare the ocean acidification between Mauritius and Antarctica. 

"Prerna Roy is an amazing writer. On our days in Antarctica, she wrote many beautiful verses in her diary," Showmitra said. It would have been fascinating to look into her notebook and follow these two scientists' journeys, but we are here to follow Showmitra's for now. 

So, let us return to him on the ship. 

The next day, on 21 December, the Indian Consulate General of South Africa, Shri Mahesh Kumar, visited the team on the ship. He met the voyagers, talked to them about the research projects, and wished them all the best. 

In the early morning of 23 December, with a forecast of a slightly cloudy day, Vasiliy Golovnin was all decked up with cargo, supplies and the voyagers, to start the adventure to Antarctica for four months. 

However, our Showmitra had to return by early February since his visa was limited. However, upon return, he was not deflated by it at all. With his Canon 6D Mark III around his neck, Showmitra was wondering if this was all real… if it even happened. 

The team of scientists poses for a group photo in front of the MV Vasiliy Golovnin before its departure from Cape Town harbour in South Africa. Photo: Showmitra Chowdhury

The beginning: The 2022 Oceanographers and Hydrographers conference

Under the multilateral forum Colombo Security Conclave (CSC), the first oceanographers and hydrographers conference themed "Our Future is with Our Oceans" was conducted from 15-18 November 2022. 

Sayeed Mahmood Belal Haider, as the then director general of Bangladesh Oceanographic Research Institute, was invited to this conference. Currently, he is the chairman of Bangladesh Fisheries Development Corporation. 

In April 2023, a letter was sent to him from the Ministry of Earth Science of India, saying that there would be a research opportunity for Bangladeshi ocean scientists and that they would take two to Antarctica. However, the scientists will have to submit research proposals.

"After having a conversation with me and my colleague, Md Mozammel Hossain, Belal sir checked our scientific proposal, physical fitness and medical condition. He then primarily selected us and decided to send our names,"  Showmitra said. 

Sadly, Mozammel could not embark on this adventure, as the organisation later informed that they could only take one scientist from Bangladesh.  

Then came the time to submit a proposal based on which the scientists would conduct research in Antarctica. The NCPOR asked for proposals on various categories – biological oceanography, environmental, geological and so on. Any scientists working in these areas were eligible to apply and send proposals.

"Initially, I prepared a research proposal on the foraminifera and Antarctic krill fish. But our project lead, Dr Yogesh, said that these had been explored before. So I further researched something that has not been explored much. 

And I prepared a proposal on the presence of microplastics in the different compartments of Antarctica," he added. 

After the primary selection of the proposals, in the second phase, the applicant had to give a scientific presentation. Upon approval of the Ministry of Earth Science of India, eligible scientists would finally be selected for the expedition. 

Showmitra got the selection letter by the end of July. By August, a team had been formed with more than 60 scientists from all over the world. For the Indian expedition, 47 personnel were sent to Antarctica between October to November by air from the Bharati Indian Base. 

For the ship expedition, 14 scientists from India, Bangladesh and Mauritius were selected. 

The reason 47 scientists and personnel went by air was they were carrying out more in-depth and time-sensitive research in Antarctica. It was summer in Antarctica during that period, and the ice was going to melt very soon. The environmental parameters were really crucial for them.

On the other hand, the team Yogesh Ray was leading included scientists who needed to collect samples on their way to the continent. 

"For example, one of the Indian scientists was comparing the presence of carbon dioxide in the air of India and Antarctica. So, he needed to measure the CO₂ level spanning over a certain distance. 

Another was working on the temperature, salinity and water conductivity of the Southern Ocean. For this, he had to collect samples three to four times a day during the trip to Antarctica," Showmitra explained. 

"I was a part of the latter team," and Showmitra seemed happy to be a part of it. He was in the Southern Sea, and then in Antarctica for almost two months, starting on 21 December. 

From Dhaka to Cape Town

Showmitra left for Delhi from Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport in Dhaka on 10 December. Then, he had to get his visa for South Africa. 

"You can get a South African visa from Bangladesh, but it takes almost a month. So, I was advised to get a visa from India," he said. The issue was, the South African authority in India was not ready to provide him with a visa for four months. 

"I kept explaining to them that I just had to be in Cape Town for six days only. I am going to Antarctica and I only need a South African visa because we will be boarding the ship from the Cape Town port. But they were adamant," Showmitra said. 

However, he decided to go anyway and informed his team leader. "I prepared for eight months, I lost 10 kg weight, took trekking training and hiking. I went to the gym every day and played table tennis to stay fit. I was not going to let go of this opportunity no matter what."

Eventually, Showmitra was able to secure a visa for three months. So, it was decided that Showmitra would wrap up his work and sample collection earlier than the others, and return by air in February before his visa expires.

On 13 December, our young scientist went to Goa and took part in a number of trainings - fire fighting, do's and don'ts in Antarctica, presentations, and also listened to the experiences of the veterans, and medical presentations on health guidelines. 

"We went to Mumbai from Goa on 16 December. The next day, at 4 am, we started for Cape Town from there."

The team stayed in Cape Town for three days, where they explored the city and did some last-minute shopping. "We needed strong hiking ropes, sample collection buckets, boxes and cans. Some of us bought biscuits and chocolates to munch on in the ship and the frozen continent.

Little did we know that we would be showered with all kinds of foods, packets of chips and chocolates on our voyage, and in Antarctica. Eventually, we avoided eating too much - otherwise, we would have gained a lot of weight," Showmitra said laughing.   

They hired four South African helicopter pilots from Cape Town, who for the next few months would take the scientists to many areas of Antarctica.

Antartica has unpredictable weather. There are days when it is all sunshine and the bluest sky, but the very next day there are blizzards and snow drifts. Photo: Showmitra Chowdhury

A journey by Vasiliy Golovnin

Vasiliy Golovnin had been to this route before and generally, it takes 10-12 days to reach Antarctica from Cape Town port. But this time, it took almost 25 days to reach. 

"We started on 23 December 2023 and reached Larsemann Hills on 16 January 2024. It took us more than double the time. One reason was we had to deliver some cargo to Princess Elizabeth Island. And the other reason was on our way, we faced five cyclones," Showmitra said. He said it in a light manner of speaking, like it was five cute cats they met on their way. 

Before starting the voyage, Yogesh Ray, like a seasoned leader, sat with his team and explained to them how the next few days on the ship were going to be. He made mess, hygiene, recreation, etc committees. From 6 am to 10 in the night – everyone got a duty and a routine to follow. 

"Our routine started at 7 am. From 7:30 to 8:30 in the morning, we would have to finish our breakfast, Lunch by 2 pm, and dinner by 8:30 pm," Showmitra recounted. 

They had two meetings every day, one at 8:30 in the morning after breakfast and the other at 8:30 in the evening after dinner, where the team members would discuss their day's plans, how they were doing their research, provide updates and presentations, etc.  

"Apart from the two chefs, every one of us of the 22 people would have to perform the galley duty or the kitchen duty at least once a week - be it the team leader, scientist or logistics person," said Showmitra, his excitement peering through the words at this point. 

Every kind of food was available on the ship. Everyone could make the food they liked on their galley day. On the galley day, the young scholars had to reach the kitchen at 6 in the morning and prepare breakfast before 7:30. The chefs would instruct them on what to do. 

For breakfast, they had roti, jam, jelly, vegetables, etc. "But after we crossed 40° latitude, we made liquidy khichuri, for most of us were experiencing ocean sickness due to the high tides and rolling and pitching of the ship," he added. 

"Surprisingly, I didn't have much of the sickness, and everyone was quite surprised to see that. It's just that I have experience of working in the Bay of Bengal in the most unimaginable boats that suffer the most unbelievable rocking. So I was quite used to it." Showmitra smiled coyly. 

On other days, they read books or unloaded the food containers. "The vegetables were stored in -20 °C. To unload and take the vegetables to the kitchen, we would make a long human chain and pass the items one by one. 

We were given a special suit to wear in Antarctica. We would wear those and practice walking and running in those suits on the ship. We celebrated the birthdays of our fellow crew members when the chef made cakes and prepared some good dishes". 

The scientists had to give presentations everyday. They had washing days on the ship, where they washed their dirty clothes. 

"Most of the time we spent on the bridge [the top floor of the ship]. We started watching Antarctic birds as we crossed 30 latitudes. Albatross, Snow petrel - the birds you will not find on the land. Yogesh sir and I both loved photography. On those days, I remember we spent time on the ship watching birds and clicking photos," reminisced Showmitra. 

As they crossed 30° latitudes in the Southern Ocean, the Russian captain informed them that two back-to-back cyclones were coming their way. The captain tried to cross the cyclone, but he realised that it was not possible. 

Eventually, they backed off and waited for the cyclone to pass. Vasiliy was almost just floating in the ocean, without moving. As the cyclones passed, they started moving again. 

Also, the sea ice condition matters. In summer, the pack ice of 1.5 meters to 3 meters starts to melt. If it does not melt, you will have to wait. Vasiliy was not an ice-breaker ship. It could break at most one meter of ice. "We were a bit slow due to all these reasons," he added. 

One day after Vasiliy crossed 50° latitudes, Yogesh came down from the bridge and told Showmitra that he saw grower ice – a fragmented piece of pack ice. 

Showmitra rushed to the top floor of the ship and started looking for it, but it was nowhere to be found. "I felt so sad that I couldn't see the first floating ice on our voyage," he added. After that day, he used to spend entire days on the bridge to find ice on the water till they crossed 60° latitudes. 

"I regularly maintained my digital pad [notebook] during my days there." 

In the last days of the voyage, the team leader Yogesh checked their presentation details and paired them with a 'buddy,' because no one was allowed to go for field visits alone. "As I was the only one from Bangladesh, I was tagged with Indian scientists." 

Sumit Kumar, a geologist and the PhD student of the team leader, was Showmitra's buddy there. "Sumit was the best buddy I could have there. He literally taught me geology, which helped me later in my fieldwork as well," Showmitra said. 

After 60° latitudes, it is Antarctica territory, or the infamous Drake Passage, for its rough seas. "We spent that time with photography and regular ship duties.  On cyclone days, the expedition team exercised, sat and waited for the storm to pass."

"Anyway, after we crossed 60° latitudes, we started watching pack ice and then icebergs, As we approached further towards Pri (Princess Elizabeth Island) and then to our station, oh my God, the ice! I mean, I have never imagined that such a mesmerising place could be on Earth."

Vasiliy finally reached Antarctica on 16 January. 

The Indian Bharti station is on the Prydz Bay island on the Larsemann hills, which could be seen from the ship since 14 January. Although the station had 47+ personnel, Yogesh's team decided to stay on the ship. 

MV Vasiliy Golovnin - the blue ocean vessel that carried the crew to Antarctica. It has been on this same route multiple times since the 1980s. Photo: Showmitra Chowdhury

Finally landing on the white continent!

Showmitra did not have enough time at hand as he had to return to Cape Town before his visa expired. So Yogesh asked him to get to sample collection as soon as possible. 

"Antarctica has such dynamic weather that you cannot predict how the next day is going to be. There had been days where it was all sunshine and the bluest sky. The very next day, we could not even get out due to blizzards and snow drifting," Showmitra explained.

He was there for 25 days and got the opportunity to go out for a field visit in just 11 days. That was the extent of the weather's generosity it seemed. 

For that, Yogesh had to extend Showmitra's time in the snowy land there. "No one works on field days for more than 3/4 hours. After one hour both the inner layers get wet and after a while, you start to shiver in the cold. And unfortunately, if your gloves get wet, you have to change them immediately".

"We wore four layers before stepping onto the snow field – three inner layers, and the final coverall dangri [dungaree]. We were given orange dangris, and I was not happy with the colour at all."  

Before getting out, the scientists packed at least four pairs of dry gloves, two sets of clothes and food for at least two days, in case they got lost.

Every day at nine, the helicopters picked the scientists up and dropped them where they needed to be. "I always landed on the highest peak because from there, everything is visible. After that I walked down to the bottom of the hill". 

"The worst part of the days was when we had to wait for the helicopters to pick us up from the fields. There was an instance when it was almost five hours and no helicopter was in sight. We started to quiver in the cold. 

One of my team members got so cold that I had to take him behind a big rock to protect him from the strong cold wind. He thought he would die that day. But eventually, the helicopter came and took us to the ship," Showmitra said. 

On another occasion, Showmitra was collecting marine water from a snow fragment on the island. He lay on the snow and dropped the bucket to collect water. One of the senior scientists was on top of a hill from where he saw him. 

"We carried walkie-talkies; we named them motorola. So he called me and said, 'What are you doing? This is dangerous. The seals are so strong that if one of them drags you into the water, you will die.' It was a huge learning experience for me," Showmitra added.    

He collected snow samples from ice compartments – from the highest peak of a snow hill and the lowest point of the island. Also, there are some freshwater lakes or catchment areas on the island. 

When the ice melts during summer, these lakes contain fresh water. Showmitra collected the water and also the sediments from the lakes. He collected samples from the marine water and the marine soil. 

"On the island, we found animals like penguins, seals, and Antarctic birds. I collected their faecal samples as well," he said. 

Other than that, Showmitra collected as many types of rocks, moss samples, and lichens as he could find there. "I collected more than 30 samples from there. At the end of my field visit day, my sample bucket used to weigh 25-30kg," he added.

Showmitra brought the samples to Bangladesh. In the next few months, he will examine those and finally write his research paper. 

After 25 days, it was time for him to return. On 4 February, a cargo aircraft carried Showmitra and a few other scientists to the Maitry Station, 2,500 kilometres away from the Bharti station. From there they took a direct flight to Cape Town. 

On 15 February, Showmitra finally landed at Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport. 

"It was an amazing experience for me. And I would like to tell everyone who wants to be an ocean scientist in Bangladesh that there is opportunity and scope to go on such an adventure. If you really want to do this, it is possible. All you have to do is prepare yourself," Showmitra said.

"I would also like to thank my DG, Prof Dr Towhida Rashid, Minister Architect Yeafesh Osman and Secretary Md Ali Hossain of the Ministry of Science and Technology, for facilitating this opportunity," Showmitra concluded with a note of gratitude.