How Sher-E-Bangla Nagar developed into an actual 'city'
The area is poised to become a practical zone for architecture students, owing to its wealth of beautiful architectural specimens. It also has the potential to become a tourist spot
The first memory I have of Dhaka is a memory in Sher-E-Bangla nagar. When I was in class three, I visited Dhaka for the first time.
Dhaka's picture in my mind was bridges and flyovers that I saw in a calendar in my best friend's drawing room; as well as the duplex buildings that I saw in movies. But when I actually set my feet on the roads of Dhaka for a stroll around the National Parliament, I was surprised by how smooth the roads looked. They were wide and clean and glistened under the moonlight.
The Crescent Lake, the greenery in Chandrima Uddyan made me believe that the whole city looked like this - serene and beautiful.
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Almost a decade later, fate brought me near Sher-e-Bangla Nagar when I was a student of HSC at Dhaka Residential Model College. I stayed there for two years.
Almost another decade has passed since then.
The two roads on both sides of Parliament house, Manik Mia Avenue and the Lake Road still remain quite beautiful.
The roads are as wide as a football field that I used to play on as a kid. The number of trees have dwindled though.
Needless to say that the Sher-e-Bangla Nagar that I knew and the Sher-e-Bangla Nagar that currently exists are quite different.
For Dr Amanat Ullah Khan, a former professor at the University of Dhaka, it is a whole new city. "I can't recognise anything properly," he said.
That's how infrastructural makeover has transformed the area. But it has a huge potential to be one of Dhaka's most popular spots.
Proliferation of aesthetically built offices
Gazing out the window of Dhaka's new sensation, the metro rail, you swiftly journey northward from Motijheel towards Uttara.
As the train glides along the outskirts of Sher-e-Bangla Nagar, three stations mark its route - Farmgate, Bijoy Shoroni, and Agargaon. Yet, the urban panorama unfolding before your eyes unveils a tale of two distinct Dhakas.
From Farmgate onwards, a familiar sight unfolds: a chaotic array of aged structures, tightly clustered. This scene resumes past Agargaon.
However, sandwiched between these stops, a remarkable transformation takes hold. Everything seems utterly different here.
Expansive, well-paved roads stretch out like ribbons, flanked by a medley of buildings - some soaring into the sky, others maintaining a more humble stature, each boasting unique architectural designs.
A sense of openness pervades, starkly contrasting the congested quarters witnessed earlier. A cursory check on Google Maps confirms this impression, revealing pockets of greenery and open spaces scattered throughout the vicinity.
While the metro rail merely brushes the periphery of Sher-e-Bangla Nagar, its presence adds another layer to the burgeoning allure of the area.
However, the full extent of the infrastructural rejuvenation remains concealed from the train's viewpoint. Hence, I took on a cycle ride around the entirety of the neighbourhood.
I pedalled down Syed Mahbub Morshed Avenue, a thoroughfare linking Begum Rokeya Avenue to Mirpur Road, and went past important government offices such as the Election Commission Secretariat, Planning Commission, Directorate of Passport and Immigration, LGED Bhaban, Bangladesh Telecommunication Regulatory Commission, National Board Of Revenue, and numerous others. Essentially, this is the most prominent road of Sher-e-Bangla Nagar.
"The proliferation of government offices has given the area a whole new identity. It was vastly different even a decade ago," remarked tea stall owner Habibur Rahaman, a resident of Sher-e-Bangla Nagar for two decades.
However, beyond the panoramic allure that captivates the eye lies the true beauty - in the minutiae.
Upon entering the National Board of Revenue (NBR) building, I noticed a three-foot gap encircling the edifice, forming a garden that is well trimmed and adorned with varieties of flowers. Upon closer inspection, I saw that each building and its premises are meticulously tended to, with immaculate cleanliness and aesthetic finesse.
No posters defile the walls, no litter mars the pathways, and no decrepit structures ruin the landscape. These micro but collective efforts contribute to the overall charm of the neighbourhood.
Not just the governmental offices, but foreign institutions such as the ADB, World Bank, and UNICEF buildings are exceptionally maintained, adorned with greenery, gardens, flowers, and renovations are done wherever necessary.
Furthermore, the uniqueness of each building adds another layer of aesthetic. Not a single one resembles another; each boasts its own unique architecture.
Urban Planner Adil Mohammed Khan, who is also a professor at the Department of Urban and Regional Planning at Jahangirnagar University, also agrees that the widening of the roads, and the diversity of the building designs added to the aesthetics of the area.
The undulating facade of the BTRC building immediately catches the eye, while the post office building resembles a colossal red postbox. Personally, I found the CEGIS Bhaban with its minimalistic design and verdant facade particularly interesting.
The road that goes from the Election Office to the Agargaon Metro Station is the one where I found some youth from the area hanging out.
"It's beautiful and not that crowded. We can hang out with friends in the afternoon. Even people from different areas visit our area; we enjoy it," said Mahbubul Pial, who was having fun with his friends after a motorbike ride on the smooth pitch.
This road also has the Coast Guard Headquarters just beside the iconic Dak Bhaban, inaugurated only three years back.
Around the whole vicinity, numerous other constructions are in progress, each flaunting intriguing designs. This neighbourhood is poised to become a practical zone for architecture students, owing to its wealth of beautiful architectural specimens.
This substantial investment in infrastructure is a bold testament to the enviable growth of Bangladesh's economy. According to the World Bank, over the past decade, Bangladesh's economy has experienced an average annual growth rate of 6.6%. Although the COVID-19 pandemic has somewhat impacted growth, in the previous year, Bangladesh observed an exceptional growth of 7.1%.
How BMP became BNP
The acronyms BNP and BMP are easily confused due to their similarity. While one stands for the Bangladesh Nationalist Party (BNP), the other represents the Bangladesh Meteorological Project (BMP) in Agargaon.
However, it's important to clarify that the sprawling slum that emerged around the BMP project wasn't constructed by any BNP leader or their supporters. It sticks out like a sore thumb among the glamorous office buildings.
Nevertheless, the reality within this slum is grim. Various crimes, ranging from drug trafficking, extortion, robberies, thefts, assaults, rapes, and even murders, have plagued its streets. Such incidents have made headlines, instilling fear among residents.
Over time, due to mispronunciation or misunderstanding, the slum came to be mistakenly associated with the BNP. Consequently, it has been colloquially referred to as the BNP Bazar.
Built around the Parliament
Sher-e-Bangla Nagar developed into a modern area after the Parliament House was erected here. Bangladesh's first provincial parliament or the East Pakistan Assembly originally convened at Dhaka University's Jagannath Hall. There is an interesting story behind it.
This assembly witnessed significant turmoil in its early years. In 1955, Shahed Ali Patwary assumed the role of Deputy Speaker. However, on 23 September 1958, Patwary controversially questioned the mental stability of Speaker Abdul Hakeem, inciting chaos within the assembly.
The chamber erupted into violence, with members engaging in physical fights with one another. Tragically, someone hurled a paperweight which struck poor Shahed Ali, and he died after two days from the injury.
Later, the parliament relocated to the Bijoy Shoroni (old airport) area.
In 1962, during Ayub Khan's move to establish Islamabad as Pakistan's capital; he announced Dhaka as 'the second capital'. It was earmarked as the legislative centre, with architect Louis Kahn commissioned to design the National Assembly complex at the Sher-e-Bangla Nagar, which was known as Ayub Nagar then.
"This designation was merely a consolation prize to East Pakistan (Bangladesh)," Professor Khan remarked.
The original plan included the National Assembly building and three temporary hostels for officials and delegates from West Pakistan during parliamentary sessions.
These lodgings were designated for ministers, secretaries, and National Assembly delegates respectively, collectively referred to as the "Citadel of the Assembly."
Initially, an alternative concept, termed the "Citadel of the Institutions," was proposed by the architect, incorporating civic functions situated across from the assembly.
However, this aspect of the project was never realised, and in 1971, it was replaced by the National Secretariat of Bangladesh.
Following a period of increased stability after 1975, the project was resurrected. The complex regained significance as a symbol, this time representing the stability and achievements of the new government.
How the area looked like in the past
Nazma Akter, aged 32, has spent her entire life in the slum adjacent to the Liberation War Museum. "When we were kids, this whole area was just one big slum. There were no museums or other buildings around," she reminisced.
She fondly recalls a time when there was a large pond next to what is now the museum where she and her friends even learned how to swim.
"The entire area was filled with slum homes. To the east, there was a graveyard, to the west, a bazaar, and in the centre, the pond. But now, it's all buildings," she said.
She pointed towards the new Department of Shipping building, which was inaugurated on 23 January of this year, along with several other buildings that have sprung up over the past five years.
"The Gas Office building has been under construction for two years, the Microcredit Regulatory Authority Office on its right has been in the works for over a year, along with the Health Engineer Department Bhaban," she said, painting a picture of how burgeoning buildings have changed the landscape of the area.
"This slum will not remain a slum for long; the whole area will turn into an actual nagar as the name suggests," she added.
But the urbanisation of this area has been a shadow of Dhaka's struggle for urban renewal.
Since the masterstroke of Louis Kahn, Bangladesh National Parliament House, and then Ganabhaban, a wave of urbanisation flooded the area.
The origins of this urbanisation can be traced back to the extensive history of urban Dhaka. By the 1830s, Dhaka had experienced a decline in its fortunes, leaving it as little more than a noble ruin.
Its once-grand Mughal palaces, gateways, bridges, tombs, and mosques lay overgrown and neglected. Even iconic landmarks like Bibi Pari's mausoleum in Lalbagh Fort, renowned for its Mughal architecture, faced imminent collapse due to lack of maintenance.
The famous Dhakeshwari Temple to the northwest was also falling into disrepair amid encroaching wilderness.
As residents abandoned the city, many houses stood empty. In just four decades, the number of habitable houses dwindled from 44,000 in 1801 to 16,279 in 1830 and further to 10,830 in 1838.
Ironically, while the population decreased, the central parts of the city became overcrowded as people migrated from the outskirts, constructing makeshift shelters along main roads.
Subsequently, as the town underwent a revival and population growth resumed, overcrowding intensified.
Dhaka had also become notoriously unsanitary and unhealthy, exacerbated by its chaotic layout and the unhygienic habits of its inhabitants.
Like many Indian towns, Dhaka's construction was unplanned, with houses—whether solidly built or makeshift—crammed together along narrow, winding streets and lanes.
Only two main roads traversed the city—one from west to east and the other from south to north—meeting near Sadar Ghat at nearly right angles.
However, a turning point in Dhaka's urban development occurred in 1840 when Magistrate Russell Moreland Skinner began implementing measures for urban improvement.
As time progressed, and Dhaka regained its administrative significance and economic prosperity, increasing attention—both from governmental initiatives and public pressure—was directed toward ameliorating the city's dire conditions.
Dhaka became the capital four times in 1660, 1905, 1947, and 1971, and each time, it underwent some urban development. In 1947, in Sher-e-Bangla Nagar, a staff quarters for government officers was built.
The Capitol Complex (Parliament House) is situated on a 1,000-acre site, originally farmland to the northern outskirts of the old city of Dhaka but now engulfed by a burgeoning metropolis.
American architect Louis Kahn received the commission for the project in 1962 and continued design until his death in 1974. Construction continued slowly, often with interruptions, but was substantially finished by 1982.
Until recently, Manik Mia Avenue and Lake Road and the areas around them were the only aesthetically pleasant areas in the entire Sher-E-Bangla Nagar. Now, the newly developed beauty of the whole area has aesthetically merged with the parliament.
"These offices around and including the Election Commission office were established just yesterday. During BNP's rule, thousands of dogs were killed and disposed of here. There is this canal (Kallyanpur Khal) from here to Gabtoli. People would use boats to commute through the canal, and all the slums and greenery were on the banks of the canal," recalled a 74-year-old Entaj Hossain.
As a ripple effect, the housing cost around the area rose. On the west, the road going to Mirpur, there are some residential buildings. "Eight years back when I took up the job, the flat which was rented at Tk13,000 is now rented at Tk18,000," said Mohammad Shahajan, a caretaker of Ekota Villa.
Mohammad Badal, a local vendor, remembers that "the first highlighted and towering building of the area was the Meteorological Department building; now it is not that remarkable among others."
Badal also testified to the rise of rent. Ten years ago, he stayed in a two-room flat for Tk5,000, and now he pays Tk21,000 for a three-room flat.
Can it be a tourist hub within Dhaka?
Professor Amanat Ullah Khan recently went there, and he was surprised to see how it has changed. He enthusiastically unlocked his phone to show me some photos he captured.
"Even though there was a heatwave, I quickly got down, took some shots and got inside the car quickly," he said, adding, "For the identification of a city, we need beautiful pockets like this."
He wholeheartedly praised the area around Sher-e-Bangla Agricultural University. With its green fields and ponds, this university gives life to the whole area.
Sher-e-Bangla Nagar has the potential to be a tourist spot with places like the Liberation War Museum, Bangladesh Air Force Museum, National Museum of Science and Technology, National Parliament Building, Chandrima Udyan and Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujibur Rahman Novo Theatre, and the Bangabandhu Military Museum just at the outskirts.
"Of course, this could be an option for tourists since tourists are tired of old places," said Professor Khan. In that case, it should be highly maintained so that it doesn't get ruined for the sake of tourism.
According to Professor Adil, "More trees have to be planted to make it more appealing for tourists and sustainable."
Challenges to address
As I rode down Bir Uttom Khaled Mosharraf Avenue, vibrant Krishnachura flowers dotted the landscape. On my left was the Sher-e-Bangla Agricultural University and on my right was the field where the trade fair used to be held.
Amidst this green and free space, I immersed myself in the tranquil beauty that Dhaka rarely offers. Yet, my reverie was disrupted by the sight of three stationary CNGs, their drivers relieving themselves by the roadside.
"It's because there's no public restroom nearby, at least not that I know of," said Mohammad Bhuttu, one of the CNG drivers.
Professor Khan is a frequent commuter on this route, he also noticed that the CNG drivers urinate along this road on a regular basis.
But he has a more significant concern. He observes young boys playing on the field beside the Bangabandhu International Conference Centre. "I fear the authorities might encroach upon this field and erect buildings," he said.
"Talks swirl about relocating the secretariat here; now that we have the elevated expressways, the secretariat could be moved northward in Uttara or Gazipur. This field serves as a breathing space for the area; it should be preserved, perhaps even enhanced. We must avoid excessive artificial development."
He continued, "The Dhanmondi 8 field, once open to all, is now locked most of the time due to overdevelopment. We mustn't repeat the same mistake here."
Expressing concern for the infrastructural upkeep, he emphasised the need for sustainable maintenance. "A significant portion of government investment must be allocated to maintaining the surroundings," he asserted. "It requires a dedicated maintenance team led by a committed individual to ensure regular upkeep of roads and vicinity."
Pointing to the encroaching grass on footpaths, he warned, "It's just a little now. But this neglect will only worsen over time."
Professor Adil, however, suggested that more holistic thought be put into the environment, transport impact and public services in the area.
"First of all, the line of greenery from Shishu Mela to Bangladesh Betar was cut down. It has to be compensated and the water bodies filled, and the Kallyanpur Khal that crossed the area should be repaired and maintained."
He also said that when all the offices will start fully operating, there will be huge traffic. The pressure of traffic in this area was not properly analysed, it needs to be addressed.
In this predominantly office-centric area, the absence of commercial spaces is conspicuous. "We need establishments like restaurants, bookstores, and furniture shops," he suggested. "Perhaps reserve a plot for a shopping centre."
There is a Tasty Treat branch inside the NBR building only for the staff. But staff of other offices order via phone calls, according to a salesperson.
This indicates that a food place is necessary, considering the influx of office goers and visitors who will be in need of dining options.
Professor Khan echoed this sentiment, emphasising the necessity of various services in an office area.
He proposed a structured approach to street food vending, discouraging unauthorised setups, to maintain order and liveliness. "A designated street food area, properly planned, will attract people and foster a vibrant atmosphere," he reasoned.
Both of them advocated ample green spaces. "Dhaka, as the capital, should offer refreshing environments with flower trees adorning dividers and footpaths. With the tree loss during construction, extensive replanting efforts are imperative for future generations," said Professor Amanat Ullah Khan.
Since it's an office centric area, after office time, it may go crowd-less. In a city like Dhaka, where some places are teeming with people to the edges, an empty area is a waste. Spots for people to gather should be more distributed.
Considering post-office hours, the experts advocated for relaxation spots and pocket parks within the office vicinity. "Restaurants and coffee shops can complement these spaces, ensuring the area remains lively beyond office hours," they suggested.
To achieve these goals, Professor Khan proposed seeking expertise from international urban planners, if needed, even on short-term contracts, to develop and hand over sustainable systems. And Professor Adil advised reassessment of plans and fixing the issues.
In essence, their vision prioritised balanced development, sustainability, and the creation of inclusive, vibrant spaces for Dhaka's denizens.
Both experts underscored the need for administrative support from the government to sustain these services and amenities.
