The immortal chime of churis
Bangles have been a staple ornament for Bangali women, adorning their hands at their weddings, or complementing their attire - be it traditional or western
Churis (bangles) have long been a distinct symbol of Bangali culture, and the century-old tradition continues to hold significance.
Take the Bangladesh women cricket team's first-ever bilateral ODI series against Australia as an example: on 30 March, ahead of the first T20I, the captains of both teams were seen wearing traditional red and green bangles in videos released by the Bangladesh Cricket Board (BCB) and the players.
The significance of churis can be found in the region's literature as well.
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Remember the poignant moment from the Kabuliwala story by Rabindranath Tagore where the Kabuliwala, Abdur Rahman Khan, brings bangles for Mini? Then there are the female protagonists of Humayun Ahmed's stories who are often depicted adorning colourful churis.
For most women, the love for churis started young.
In the '90s, an adolescent Kulsum would often eagerly accompany her father to the village fair in hopes of purchasing bangles. Even after her marriage, Kulsum's love for bangles has not waned.
Recalling her memories, Kulsum remarked, "In our youth, the melodious chime of bangles and the rhythmic tinkling of nupur announced a girl's presence on the streets. Young girls would adorn themselves with bangles, considering them an essential component of their wardrobe."
Know your churi
Today, girls embrace the versatility of churis, pairing them not only with sarees and kameez but also western attire.
One of the primary drivers behind the sustained demand for locally made bangles is the diversification of designs. The market now offers a plethora of options, including fibre, metal, yarn, cloth, wood, and plastic bangles, and shoppers can choose from a wide array of 40-50 different designs.
Shahabuddin, a bangle wholesaler, said, "Previously, bangles lacked diversity, with only a handful of designs available. However, nowadays, factory owners are attuned to consumer preferences, producing a wide range of designs. Each factory now manufactures at least three to four different types of bangles."
Churihatta in Chawkbazar, deriving its name from 'Churir Haat,' (bangle market), is a place where Muslim artisans have been crafting and selling glass bangles since the Mughal era, and it still remains a prominent hub for the supply of these ornamental bands.
As chronicled in Nazir Hossain's renowned book Kingbodontir Dhaka, "Dhaka's bangles held immense prestige in the subcontinent, with numerous bangle factories dotting Churihatta. Subsequently, many artisans migrated from Dhaka to Central India."
It is noteworthy that the Churihatta mosque was erected to cater to the religious needs of these bangle artisans.
Today, rows of bangle shops still line the streets of Churihatta. Directly opposite the Chawkbazar Shahi Mosque alone, there are at least 15 bangle shops.
In Chawkbazar, shoppers can find an assortment of bangles, such as reshmi churi, Khajkata churi, bou churi, Kashful, Muskan, Rupkatha, Mayuri, Jaipuri, Devdas etc.
Among these, reshmi bangles have a rich history, spanning approximately a hundred years.
Interestingly, what we commonly refer to as native reshmi churis are primarily imported from India, owing to the unavailability of necessary raw materials and skilled craftsmen within Bangladesh.
Rashedul, a seasoned bangle wholesaler, remarked, "Many people think that reshmi bangles are domestically produced, but in reality, these bangles have never been manufactured within the country."
Despite the availability of bangles from other countries like China and Myanmar, the Indian bangle market remains dominant.
The popularity of reshmi bangles peaked until the '90s, after which the bou churi gained prominence as a popular choice among bangle enthusiasts.
Mayuri bangles also enjoy significant popularity at present. Adorned with pearl-like stones and dipped in gold water for a gilded finish, these bangles were particularly favoured by married women, often purchased in dozens to complement their attire.
How are bangles made?
According to artisan Jalal Uddin, bangles go through a 28-step process before landing on someone's wrists.
For silver bangles, first, the silver wire is straightened in a specialised machine. The wire is then cut into long springs using another machine, followed by further segmentation with a cutting tool. These segmented springs are then transformed into circular bangles through a meticulous process facilitated by fire.
Next, skilled artisans meticulously refine the bangles, trimming excess silver and incorporating intricate designs such as incisions. Undesirable scratches are removed by hammering the bangles and reshaping them again.
Safety precautions are paramount in this process, with many craftsmen wrapping their fingers with cloth or rubber to prevent accidental cuts.
The machines are operated by male workers, while the embellishment of bangles is typically handled by female artisans.
Operators make around 1,000 bangles per day, though some workers demonstrate higher productivity. Female artisans report crafting anywhere between 1,000 to 3,000 bangles per day.
Among the various types of bangles, bou churis demand the most intricate decoration, presenting considerable challenges due to its weight.
Crafting bou churis entail cutting round pieces of metal, subjecting them to fire, and subsequently coating them with a mixture of clay and glue. Various adornments such as stones, chumkis, and lace are meticulously placed and firmly affixed afterwards.
The finished bangles are then assembled in dozens, packaged, and prepared for sale, yielding a profit margin of Tk5 to Tk10 per dozen.
On the other hand, glass bangles entail a more arduous process, involving the utilisation of raw materials such as different types of glass bottles, broken glass, and paints. Melting glass in fire is a key step in the fabrication process, making it inherently more complex.
The production hub for glass bangles primarily lies in Barishal and Comilla's Dewanbag due to the requisite space and glass not being readily available in Dhaka.
Nonetheless, occasional manufacturing occurs in Dhaka's factories, particularly when the raw materials are readily accessible.
More popular than ever
In terms of demand, the bangle industry has witnessed significant growth over the years. In the '90s, Shahidnagar had around 20-30 bangle factories.
Md Mintu, a veteran craftsman of the industry and now a factory owner, notes that the proliferation of bangle factories began to accelerate around the year 2000.
There are now approximately 500 bangle factories in Kamrangir Char and Shahidnagar combined. These factories cater to a wide range of wholesale customers, offering bangles priced anywhere from a minimum of Tk10 to a maximum of Tk120 per dozen.
These establishments, both large and small, employ workforces of at least 20 individuals each. Furthermore, individuals who acquire skills through hands-on experience often go on to establish their own factories, contributing to the industry's growth.
Mintu reflects on the symbiotic relationship between bangle demand and urban development, observing that many individuals have parlayed their success in the bangle trade into lucrative real estate ventures.
Bangles have also seen prices increase in recent years, a hike that is attributed to the rising costs of raw materials.
While reshmi bangles once dominated the market, they have been overtaken by a diverse range of imported alternatives. Yet the price of reshmi bangles have increased over the years.
Previously, a bundle of reshmi bangles, comprising six bundles (equivalent to four dozen bangles per bundle), was priced at Tk400. Today, that same bundle commands a price of Tk700. Similarly, a few years ago, a dozen reshmi glass bangles were available for Tk30, but now they are priced between Tk40-50. Other types of bangles, previously priced at Tk60-70, now fetch prices ranging from Tk150-200. Heavy-duty varieties can even reach prices of Tk300-400.
Despite the escalating prices though, the demand for bangles remains robust. Wholesalers in Chawkbazar report increased sales compared to previous years.
Wholesalers say Chattogram and Sylhet exhibit the highest demand outside Dhaka. While trading remains steady year-round, peak seasons for bangle sales are November, December, and January, as well as during Eid, New Year, and Falgun.
Bangle-making has also enticed many from the garment industry to switch professions. Despite lower wages, individuals appreciate the comfort, safety, and flexibility afforded by bangle-making. Unlike the rigid structure of garment work, bangle artisans enjoy the freedom to tend to personal matters and take breaks as needed.
Ruksana, a former garment worker turned bangle artisan, attests to the stark contrast in working conditions, expressing relief at the newfound flexibility and autonomy in her job.
"When I used to work in an RMG factory, if someone from my family fell ill, I would have to go to five people to ask for a short leave. I used to enter the factory in the morning and leave at night. But here, I can visit my house if I want, I can go out and grab a cup of tea. I can take leaves," she said.
This article was originally published in Bangla and was translated by Miraz Hossain.
