An ‘otithi’ in Rajshahi
If you are tired of the endless Cox’s Bazar trips, Rajshahi could offer the right change in scenery for you through a community-based heritage tour
Apart from a few fishermen about 30–40 metres away, it felt as though we were the only people on the char. We had just finished tea and some local sweets while Bhola Da, a local musician, worked his magic on the flute.
When Nirupom, a BRAC representative, picked up the flute and started playing, I asked what tunes he knew.
"I can play the Titanic meme tune," he joked — and then actually went on to play it! It was a humorous but jarring moment. Yet, it was on that char, surrounded by the waters of the Padma, that the trip truly came alive for me.
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We had arrived in Rajshahi earlier that day along with two veteran journalists and a representative from BRAC. Our purpose? The launch of Otithi, a community-based tourism initiative by the non-profit. For the duration of our visit, we stayed at the Rajshahi BRAC Learning Centre.
Our first stop was a Santal village, about 30 minutes from the city centre. The roads were, unsurprisingly, empty, but what struck me most was how clean Rajshahi was — minimal litter, no makeshift dumping sites (a stark contrast to Dhaka), and meticulously maintained road dividers that would satisfy even the most obsessive neat freaks.
The village, Gordaing, was sparsely populated. We were warmly welcomed by Happy Soren, a community guide and the daughter of village chief Sudhir Soren. After a tour of the village, the men and women performed a traditional Santal dance, singing in the Santali tongue.
From there, we headed to Dumuria village in Premtoli, where we met Binoy Kumar Pal, a potter. Rajshahi's pottery tradition dates back to Mahasthangarh (circa 300 BCE), thriving through generations with masterpieces like Shokher Hari — terracotta vessels adorned with intricate geometric motifs.
Guided by Binoy Da, we even tried making our own pots. My attempt was somewhat decent, but it was because Binoy Da came to my rescue when the pot I made was on the verge of being reduced to a lump of clay once again. I also managed to get clay on my clothes despite wearing an apron.
Afterward, we returned to the BRAC Learning Centre for lunch. Among the spread was a dish I had never heard of before: badam bharta. Imagine peanut butter, but spicy! It overshadowed even the other bhartas on the menu, the names and tastes of which I have honestly forgotten by now.
Post-lunch, we visited the Padma T-Badh. Along the way, we passed the remains of a collapsed two- or three-story structure. "That was the Awami League office," a local journalist explained. "The people tore it down on August 5." When asked how they managed it, he replied nonchalantly, "A bulldozer."
After a brief stop at T-Badh, we boarded a boat to the char, where we enjoyed a picnic to the serene tunes of a flute (and, of course, the Titanic meme tune). Upon returning to the mainland, we headed to Rajshahi University. By then, night had fallen, and a walk down Paris Road on the campus proved mesmerizing.
This enchanting road, lined with ancient trees standing like sentinels of time, offered a rare serenity far removed from the bustle of city life.
The tranquility was short-lived, however, when we tried Lebu Pinik, a campus street food consisting of lime slices sprinkled with spice and salt. Its primary purpose seemed to be to make your friends involuntarily contort their faces with each bite.
Later, we took an auto rickshaw ride near the city centre and ended the night with some flavoured paan at a roadside stall.
For dinner, the cook at the BRAC Learning Centre prepared a variety of bhartas, along with kalai rotis and chicken curry. By the end of the day, we were exhausted, partly because the Otithi team had condensed a three-day itinerary into just two.
The next morning began with a visit to the Puthia Shib Mandir, a breathtaking architectural marvel steeped in history. We then explored the Puthia Rajbari, a testament to the legacy of Rajshahi's queens, whose influence far surpassed that of the kings.
Rani Hemantakumari, one such queen, was widowed at the age of 15. Rising above her circumstances, she became one of history's most powerful women. In 1937, during a cholera outbreak, she played a pivotal role in the Rajshahi Water Works project, ensuring clean water access for all. Her enduring legacy lives on in the city's dhopkols (water pumps), some of which still function today.
The Puthia Rajbari stands as a symbol of her vision, blending Indo-European architecture with a forward-looking spirit. Beyond the structures, her impact endures in the region's ongoing narrative of women's empowerment.
Our final stop was the Varendra Research Museum, one of Bangladesh's oldest museums, established in 1910. This treasure trove showcases the region's ancient and medieval history through sculptures, clay plaques, coins, and manuscripts. The exhibits span Bengal's Buddhist, Hindu, and Islamic past.
With the museum visit, our tour came to an end. After lunch and the official Otithi launch event, we headed back to Dhaka, leaving behind the charm and tranquility of Rajshahi.
