The Substance: When beauty becomes gruesome
In ‘The Substance’ (2024), Coralie Fargeat crafts a haunting tale of beauty, identity, and societal rejection, as Demi Moore’s Elisabeth Sparkle battles ageism and the destructive allure of perfection in a cutthroat, image-obsessed world
Perfectionism in movies often explores characters who lose their sense of self, sanity, and humanity in pursuit of a flawless ideal. Films like 'Black Swan', 'Whiplash', and 'Perfect Blue' explore this intense theme, offering a gripping portrayal of individuals who sacrifice everything—including their mental well-being—in their relentless quest for perfection. These narratives provide a harrowing glimpse into the toll of dedicating one's soul entirely to their craft.
In 'The Substance' (2024), filmmaker Coralie Fargeat immerses us in a chilling reality where Demi Moore's Elisabeth Sparkle confronts the inexorable passage of time and the sting of societal rejection.
The film serves as a stark reminder that true horror often resides in the realities we face, resonating deeply with the modern world's fixation on beauty and relevance, making its commentary both timely and unsettling.
The opening moments of the film establish the unsettling atmosphere of the dystopian world Elisabeth Sparkle inhabits. The story begins on a film set bathed in artificial, unnaturally bright lighting, with a distorted, almost surreal quality to the surroundings.
As Sparkle steps off the set, the artificiality lingers, blurring the lines between reality and performance. The environment feels eerie and overly polished, as though she has never truly left the confines of the TV set, amplifying the film's haunting tone.
In her world youth isn't just coveted but commodified—where pursuing perfection is as intoxicating as destructive. Underneath its glamour runs a cut-throat world where beauty and youth are the last words in the game. In time, when she starts to lose her face card, Sparkle experiences the industry's cruel ageism, and her descent into desperation becomes inevitable.
Her lifeline? A black-market serum, 'The Substance,' offers not just a fountain of youth but a shadowy doppelgänger, Sue, portrayed with eerie perfection by Margaret Qualley.
What follows is a disturbing cycle of shared consciousness and identity, where Elisabeth and Sue alternate lives to cling to what society deems valuable. But beneath the sheen of youth lies a nightmare.
Margaret Qualley's portrayal of Sue is simultaneously alluring and unsettling, capturing the paradox of perfection as both liberating and imprisoning. Qualley mirrors Sparkle's essence but gradually evolves into an entity with her aspirations, underscoring the erosion of her identity.
The Substance becomes a potent symbol for modern anti-ageing treatments, which promise miracles while exacting hidden psychological and physical tolls. The film shows how women are coerced into maintaining an image of flawlessness, even at the expense of their mental health and autonomy.
Visually stunning yet suffocating, the film immerses viewers in Elisabeth Sparkle's fractured psyche. Coralie Fargeat masterfully employs bright colours and striking cinematography to juxtapose Sparkle's deteriorating mental state with Sue's artificial allure.
Mirrors and shattered glass recur throughout, symbolising fragmented identities, while the 'Eye of Horus' serves as a pitiful motif for surveillance and societal scrutiny. These artistic choices heighten the film's horror elements while enriching its exploration of self-awareness and the oppressive weight of the public gaze.
Demi Moore's performance as Sparkle is remarkable, marking a career-defining portrayal of a woman unravelling under the weight of her choices. Moore captures Elisabeth's transition from a confident magnate to a desperate figure consumed by regret and self-loathing. Her nuanced expressions, from suppressed anguish to moments of delusional hope, resonate deeply, making Elisabeth's plight both tragic and relatable.
The horror in 'The Substance' is not confined to gore but extends to existential dread. It questions one's identity, the ethics of enhancement, and the human cost of technological advancements.
In an age dominated by unattainable standards and relentless scrutiny, 'The Substance' serves as both a cautionary tale and a rallying cry for authenticity. It is a film that lingers long after the credits roll, leaving audiences to ponder the true cost of beauty and the nature of identity in a world increasingly shaped by artifice.