In the season of suits: The elementaries of building ensembles
For gentlemen, a suit is more an investment than an expense
Straddling the Tropic of Cancer, Bangladesh has a tropical climate with the summer and monsoon being hot, long and humid, and the winter being short and not too severe. The mostly hot and humid weather dictates the quotidian outfit of most people, with comfort and functionality being at the center and aesthetics, formal appeal and sartorial mannerism following far. However, with the arrival of winter, this changes, and the paradigm shifts to being suave - as the amicable weather allows for it.
The otherwise "not for summer" tag from suits are lifted during winters, and many are seen wearing suits or jackets over tucked-in shirts and pants, or sweaters, in places where winter is more prevalent - as they head out in their daily lives in the chilly season.
As most suits or jackets in Bangladesh are fused - they make for a rather not-so-comfortable and uninsulated piece of garment - only possible to be worn in the winters, but not always congenial. Winters also see a lot of festivities taking place, namely weddings - where the fuzzy sweaters are swiped for the suits. Many even get their first suit in this season.
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For some years now Bangladesh has witnessed a rise in sartorial awareness - pioneered by Bangladeshi menswear icon Shahzaman Mozumder, and his blog - The King of Dhaka, and the establishment of bespoke suit ateliers in the country. While bespoke canvas and half-canvas suits can carry a big number on its price tag, they can be wearable almost throughout the year and last longer and age finely with proper care.
The made-to-measure fused suits by comparison cost much less in making charge or if bought off-the-rack, but are not very comfortable, often ill-fitting, cant be worn with ease all through the year and age badly.
A suit is an investment along with being a verisimilitude of one's virtues and silhouette of their self, and certainly more than just about being soigné and suave. One should plan and put thought to it before getting a suit - considering the purpose, personality and of course the price.
If one would like to foray into the sartorial debonair but can't afford the hefty price tags just yet - they can save up, or be patient and start small, and gradually move up.
Most in the country get their first suit in black - a very restricting colour, which doesn't always make a fine pair against other tones. Whether it's a three-piece suit - jacket, trousers and vest; a more common two-piece - jacket and trousers only, single breasted (SB) or a more formal - double breasted (DB) jacket - it is better to get the first suit in the more staple colours of gray, navy blue or charcoal; in solids or subtle stripes and glen checks. This allows for the option to mix-and-match with other sets, for versatility.
Shirts in solids or subtle stripes in lighter tones like white, pink and sky blue pair well - with barrel or French cuffs depending on the person. About half an inch of the shirt cuff should be visible beyond the jacket cuff — the seam where the shirt cuff joins the shirt sleeve should never be visible. Sleeves of the jacket should never hide the shirt sleeve entirely. At least a small band of shirt cuff should always be visible. Turtleneck sweaters or Tees also make for a very suave and nonchalant alternative to shirts one befitting winter.
The tie and pocket square must be contrasting yet complementing. The fold of the pocket square can vary the occasion of the wearer, and should be worn with a jacket. A fine boutonniere on the lapel can add a node to the sensitive side of masculinity and also a flamboyant flare. Gentlemen can match its colour with one of the aspects of their partner - maybe their favourite colour, or match with the colour of their nail polish or lipstick, this can be extended to the cufflinks and tie accessories.
Only the first button or first two buttons in case of jackets with three are to be fastened; with the buttons being unfastened when sitting in SB jackets; DB jacket buttons are always supposed to be fastened. Sartorial norm dictates all leatherwear be of matching tone, and the socks should never be full-white ones for adults.
Worn against dark toned shoes - oxford, derby, monk-strap, loafers or even boating shoes and completed by a complimenting tie and contrasting pocket square - a suit ensemble is like a set of armour of modern knight - gleaming with chivalry.
Made to measure, bespoke, structured or non-structured, lining, canvas or fused, buttons, lapel style, pick-stitching, and other intricate details of the suit again depends on the person and the purpose of wearing the suit. It is important to 'tick with the tailor' - from wherever one may get their suit; the tailor should have a good understanding of the client's expectation from the outfit. A suit is better to be commissioned than be bought off the rack.
