Strong labour protection to help prevent future sanctions: US diplomat

A US diplomat in Bangladesh has emphasised the importance of strong labour protections in order to prevent potential sanctions while unlocking greater economic opportunities.

Speaking at a Plenary Session of the 4th edition of Sustainable Apparel Forum at Radisson Blu Water Garden Dhaka on Thursday, Leena Khan, labour attaché of the US Embassy in Bangladesh, said the ongoing labour law reforms through the Bangladesh Labour Act and the Export Processing Zones Labour Act are a means of creating an enabling environment for labour protection.

"Strong [labour] protections are necessary to communicate more broadly to the international community that Bangladesh can be a real leader when it comes to strong labour rights. And, that will not only help prevent future issues around sanctions but also unlock greater economic opportunities," said Leena Khan.

She stressed the need for proper implementation and enforcement of labour laws through inspection and called for the registration of trade unions without fear of retribution or reprisal.

The diplomat also mentioned that the US and the European Union are working towards creating a more equal playing field for businesses through due diligence and enforcement mechanisms. She expressed her desire to see a legally binding and enforceable agreement between brands, suppliers, and workers' organisations, citing the example of such legally binding agreements in Tamil Nadu in 2022.

Earlier, US Ambassador Peter Haas also highlighted the importance of strong labour rights for sustainable economic growth in the garment sector and beyond. He stressed the rights of workers to form and join independent trade unions and collectively bargain for better working conditions, as well as access to remedies for labour violations. Haas also said labour law reforms, effective implementation, and enforcement are essential for Bangladesh to become a middle-income country by 2026.

Faiyaz Murshid Kazi, director general of the Economic Affairs Wing at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, agreed with Leena's comments and said human rights are an integral part of Bangladesh's DNA. He urged international friends to trust Bangladesh's ability to make change and emphasised the need for quality trade unions.

He also expressed his disappointment with the lack of trust in the RMG Sustainability Council and Accord.

"We are ready to work on all kinds of legal and policy reforms. Please help us. Our industry leaders have always said we need quality trade unions more than the number of trade unions," Murshid said.

In response to Peter Haas' comments, Faiyaz Murshid said, "In 2016, the US government decided to restore GSP facilities for Myanmar, and withdraw all kind of sanctions against it; and in 2017, the country committed generally accepted genocide.

"But since 2013, the US government has withdrawn GSP from Bangladesh. We do not even qualify for treatment that is given to a country that has committed textbook example of ethnic cleansing and genocide.

"So, this is a kind of thing that does not really help get the conversation forward."

Speaking on the sanctions issue, he said, "Yes, that is probably the elephant in the room, but we are not scared. We are used to all these kinds of things."

Replying to a question from Murshid, Leena Khan said the US government has not provided GSP facilities to any country since early last year.

Ambassador Charles Whiteley, head of delegation of the European Union to Bangladesh, acknowledged the textile sector as the heart of EU-Bangladesh trade relations, with exports to the EU rising from $3 billion in 2002 to $24 billion last year.

He said the need for Bangladesh to graduate to a developing-country status and transition to GSP Plus, which requires intensifying efforts to comply with environmental and political standards. He emphasised the need for cooperation between the EU government, business, and civil society to ensure a smooth transition and the development of compliance and industrial innovation to meet the challenges of the green transition.

BGMEA President Faruque Hassan urged all stakeholders to collaborate, and exchange knowledge and expertise to ensure more decent employment, and build a resilient and sustainable fashion industry.

Instead of country-specific or trading bloc-specific legislation, he underscored the importance of human rights and environmental due diligence that are accepted by all players in the global fashion industry.

The fashion industry needs to agree on a globally standardised approach to purchasing practices and due diligence, the BGMEA President said, adding that otherwise, it would become too difficult for the suppliers to comply with thousands of different structures.

Commerce Minister Tipu Munshi was the chief guest at the opening Session of the Sustainable Apparel Forum.