When imperfection is perfect: Into the edgy world of asymmetric jewellery
Bangladeshi women have been practising asymmetry in accessories for many years in forms of nose pin, ‘jhapta’, ‘payel’
Azmeri Haque Badhon never stops amazing us at the red carpets. This year at the Meril Prothom Alo-2022 award ceremony, she wore a traditional black Benarasi saree with golden zari work all over, which she paired with a modern black blouse. But the star in her entire look was the ear cuff and the ring.
The golden metal ear cuff and the ring featured crooked twigs, and the twigs were topped with flakes of turquoise. The turquoise matched with the bow of her blouse, and the gold complemented the zari work on her saree.
The jewellery pieces were designed by Jerin Tasnim Khan, the owner and designer of 6 Yards Story.
"Asymmetric jewellery is a modern take on accessories, but Badhon, as confident as always, paired the pieces with a traditional saree, which gave it a totally different look. Women now are more experimental with their looks. It all depends on the way you are carrying it," Jerin said.
This is not the only time Badhon ventured into the contemporary and edgy world of asymmetrical jewellery. During the Cannes Film Festival in 2021, she wore a maroon velvet jumpsuit, which she accessorised with chain danglers. Now the length of the earrings differed, playing with proportions; one grazed her shoulder while the other fell below the chin, allowing her to turn the other cheek with style.
This is what asymmetry in jewellery or other accessories does — updates your entire look with a simple shift in design perspective.
6 Yards Story has designed other asymmetrical pieces, for example, dainty ear cuffs, and name studs in Bangla letters that also fall into this category, which, according to the owner, has a fanbase of its own.
"I did not expect these kinds of pieces would gain so much popularity. Of course, the order for these pieces is less than the traditional symmetric pieces, in terms of volume. But after the ear cuff Badhon wore, I have been receiving so many orders for this one that I am still struggling to meet them," Jerin said.
Bangladeshi women, however, have been practising asymmetry in accessories for many years. Think about the nose pins they wear on one side or the 'payel', the single anklet worn on just one ankle, the 'Jhapta' — the head ornament worn at one side of the head, etc. But now, the designs are also incorporating asymmetry.
And not just costume jewellery, brands are creating high-end pieces using precious stones and metal, embracing the notion of casual imperfection with a relaxed attitude to precious gems. The playfulness fused with signature design codes creates not-so-perfect pairs. If you are someone who takes their jewels seriously but still wants to have fun and stand out, these pieces are for you.
Earrings and danglers
Victoire de Castellane, creative director of Dior Jewelry, is a master of creating asymmetric pieces. She has always enjoyed teasing traditional concepts of high jewellery, favouring asymmetric proportions and vivid stones. In the Dior et Moi or the Versailles Act II collection, she had a tango with this playfulness of her and the amalgamation of stones, cuts and colours.
Take the Plaisir Champêtre Saphir earrings from the Versailles Act II collection for example. It is a sapphire-ruled piece, but one dangles from a stem of tsavorite garnets, while the other features a bouquet of pink sapphires, emeralds, turquoise, yellow diamonds, Paraiba tourmalines and lacquer blooms.
Sabine Roemer, the jeweller of the London Jewellery House, feels that the unexpectedness of these pieces adds to the versatility. In a 2017 interview taken by The New York Times, she said, "Asymmetric earrings, of course, should be matching or seem to be, but there's an element of the unexpected that I like."
But you don't have to burn a hole in your pocket to embrace this trend. Just buy two pairs of earrings of the same designs but in different colours. The day you want to spice up your polished mundane look, pick one from both colours and pair them up.
Necklace
The diamond and emerald necklace by Graff is another stunning addition to the world of expensive asymmetry. The fine-cut oval emeralds and diamonds are draped in a chain and elegantly joined by a bow on one side of the necklace. Pair it with an asymmetric off-shoulder gown, and the entire outfit will appear ecstatically balanced.
This is something that we have seen in the Bangladeshi market as well. A couple of long strands of pearls or gold balls tied with a pendant on one side is something we have worn at least once.
Bangladeshi fine jewellery store Jarwa House has also ventured into this arena with elaborate OTT necklaces. The pink meenakari flower gold necklace cascades with uncut diamonds, and a red teardrop stone chandelier encircles the hem. But the designer added a twist by bringing a gold curve from one side of the necklace, and green teardrop stones hang from the curve.
Bracelets
Chanel's '1.5' collection is almost entirely composed of asymmetrical designs, serving as a jaw-dropping addition to this category. They integrated their iconic Camelia flower motif alongside an abundance of diamonds and pearls into these high-end jewellery creations. The 'contraste blanc' bracelet with diamonds and cultured pearls in white gold is a stunning piece. The centre camelia flower has pave diamonds set, while the band on one side is of pearls, and the other side features diamonds.
The rose gold love bracelet by Diamond World is the perfect example of this. The minimalist bracelet has a red ruby in diamond shape on one end and a teardrop-shaped white diamond on the other.