Handmade shoemakers in Narayanganj struggle against the tide of brands

On Nawab Siraj-ud-Daula Road, also known as Kali Bazar Road, in Narayanganj, there are five modest shoe shops. Lacking the glitz of modern showrooms, these shops hold a hidden treasure - the legacy of handmade shoemaking, a tradition dating back to pre-independence times.

These cobblers, both craftsmen and sellers, cater to both retail and wholesale customers. While their businesses once had factories, the changing tide of the industry has swept those away.

Despite the potential to supply shoes to Dhaka and its neighbouring districts, demand for handmade footwear has dwindled, coupled with the struggle for fair pricing. This decline has dampened their spirit of investing capital.

The Narayanganj streetscape has been witnessing a surge of branded shoe stores. Companies like Bata, Apex, Bay, Lotto, and Sprint are rapidly establishing their presence, adding to the existing competition. These brands attract customers with contemporary designs and comfort, easily drawing a larger audience.

Even so, a loyal customer base still cherishes the distinct comfort of handmade shoes. These patrons, drawn by affordability and durability, visit the Kali Bazar shops once or twice a year.

Khokon Chandra Das, a 30-year-old inheritor of this tradition, carries on his father's legacy. His father Rakhal Chandra Das established a thriving shop before independence. Back in the 1980s, the factory bustled with activity, employing 30 workers and supplying shoes solely for wholesale distribution. However, those prosperous days are today a distant memory. Today, Khokon wages a battle to keep the business afloat.

Khokon recalls Enayetnagar, a former shoe manufacturing hub where hundreds of artisans once worked. Now a mere handful remain, many having opted for alternative careers. Despite the challenges, Khokon remains committed, driven by the sentimental value of his family's craft.

He blames the decline on two key factors - the dominance of foreign brands and his limited financial resources. Unlike the laborious process of creating handmade shoes, large-scale, automated factories require significant capital investment, which Khokon lacks.

While they may lack the glitz of branded footwear, handmade shoes offer distinct advantages - durability, quality, and the ability to customize.

Khokon's shop displays a familiar variety of shoes – Loafers, Chatti, Belt, Sacchi, Slippers, etc – mirroring those seen in both branded and non-branded stores. However, the heart is in the manufacturing process itself. While shoe production has ceased due to high costs and low demand, they still accept custom orders.

Both Khokon and other shopkeepers explain their diverse clientele. Customers of all ages, especially those struggling to find their size in branded stores or seeking comfort for foot problems, frequent these shops.

Though time-consuming, the affordability of handmade shoes remains a significant draw. Ready-made shoes range from Tk400 to Tk1,200, with custom orders varying based on specifications. The craftsmen assure customers of fair prices, slightly lower than market rates while maintaining quality.

Rony, a seasoned shoemaker with over two decades of experience, can craft 12 pairs daily. He describes his work as straightforward, yet feels undervalued due to the dwindling customer base.

Rony emphasises the use of pure leather in their shoes, ensuring a lifespan of one and a half to two years. However, the allure of branded stores reduces foot traffic to their shops.

Even during Eid, a period of heightened demand, they struggle to sell more than 20-30 pairs daily, with numbers dipping to a meagre 5-8 pairs on regular days. This decline in profitability, from a high of Tk300 per pair to a mere Tk50, paints a grim picture.

Faced with a bleak future, these shoemakers are reluctant to pass on their craft to the younger generation. The ease of buying and selling readily available shoes discourages younger generations from entering this struggling profession.

Like the forgotten shoemakers of Enayetnagar, they believe that seeking opportunities elsewhere holds greater promise.