Attarly delightful: Attar gets a modern makeover

In an era dominated by synthetic fragrances, attars are gaining recognition over time for being natural and eco-friendly. Photo: TBS

There is a popular meme where someone not well-versed in English assumes that anything said in English must be good. Like that meme, as someone with a thing for perfumes and smelling good, I was immediately drawn to the concept of "perfumed oil" when I first heard about it around 2015–16. 

It however ended in disappointment. "It is practically attar," I told a friend one day. 

We have known attar even before birth (it sounds better in Bangla, doesn't it?). The history of perfumed oils, or "attar" as it is traditionally known, dates back thousands of years. Ancient texts and historical accounts speak of its use in the courts of Mughal emperors and the rituals of Sufi saints. 

These oils, meticulously crafted from flowers, herbs, and spices, were more than just fragrances; they were an integral part of cultural and spiritual life, creating an aura of tranquillity and reverence.

But over time, the so-called 'Westernised' perfume entered our culture through the floodgates of globalisation. The Internet took over, and we got to know about the different brands of perfumes out there. The allure of international brands, with their sleek and smart packaging and global appeal transcending boundaries and time, overshadowed the humble attar.

We dove deep into it, finally entering the esoteric, invite-only dark arts of perfumery, where it was broken into notes and tones for newbies.

Meanwhile, the once-thriving markets of Gulistan and Chawkbazar, where vendors sold tiny vials of liquid gold, declined. The rich, piquant scents of sandalwood, jasmine, rosewater, and many more, which once filled the air with the happiness of common households, were replaced by more synthetic and commercially popular fragrances.

The tradition of attar-making in Bangladesh has always been considered a revered craft by an esoteric circle. Making attar is both an art and a science, requiring a deep understanding of natural ingredients and precise distillation methods. 

Each family involved in this trade carried forward their knowledge with the utmost care and dedication. This intricate craft was often a family secret, passed down through generations, with each family guarding their recipes and techniques to ensure the legacy of perfumed oils remained intact.

These fragrant oils have aromatised temples, mosques, and homes for centuries. But as Bangladesh embraced modernity, many traditional crafts began to disappear, and attar-making was no exception. 

Influenced by Western culture and consumerism, the younger generation started favouring international brands over local products. But can you blame the younger people? Like any business or skill, every service must ensure perpetual growth and improvement, especially in a delicate craft. People are fickle-minded, and brand loyalty can only last so long if the craft does not evolve. 

In the world of free trade, businesses must constantly up their game to fend off competition. Despite trade barriers and quotas to protect domestic industries, relying on such cushions without genuine effort only prolongs the inevitable decline.

Attar had been marginalised for a long time. Its marketing often had a religious angle, with incense and perfumed oil predominantly sold with a religious lens. Marketers, often seen in religious attire, would sell these products before and after Friday prayers or venerations. This angle was unsustainable.

A few passionate artisans and entrepreneurs, however, recognised the potential to revive this lost art. They understood perfumed oils were not just about fragrance; they represented individuality, heritage, and a connection to the past. They aimed to tap into the heart of every Bangladeshi, where tradition remains strong.

The resurgence of perfumed oils in Bangladesh is more than just a commercial success story; it is a cultural renaissance. The rise of social media has played a crucial role in this revival, with young influencers showcasing the elegance and sophistication of these age-old fragrances. 

The mesmerising scent of roses, bergamot, oud, etc. now wafts through these venues, drawing crowds and sparking conversations about the country's rich olfactory heritage, creating a delight for the senses. Perfumed oils have also found their way into weddings, religious ceremonies, and daily rituals, slowly becoming an integral part of the Bangladeshi way of life once again.

The artisans behind this Renaissance are the true custodians of the craft. I was fortunate to have an adda with a third-generation attar maker from Old Dhaka who runs his business in Babu Bazar. He grew up surrounded by the intoxicating scents of his grandfather's workshop. 

When he took over the family business, he faced the harsh reality of declining interest and dwindling sales. However, his innovative approach combined traditional methods with modern marketing strategies. 

Determined to revive the art and the business, he embarked on a journey to modernise the appeal of perfumed oils without compromising their traditional essence. He began by rebranding his products, offering them in elegant, contemporary packaging that would appeal to the modern consumer. He also started importing. He and many others expanded their online presence instead of sticking to the brick-and-mortar system.

His online store, offering customised perfumed oils, has garnered a loyal customer base locally and internationally. Through his efforts, he is not only doing his part in preserving a dying art but also creating economic opportunities for local farmers who supply the raw materials. Slowly but surely, his efforts began to bear fruit. Now you see even big players from other markets have entered this attar business! (Yes, Al-Haramain, I'm talking about you!)

Following the trend of the new era, the artisans of perfumed oil have reached out to fashion designers, beauty bloggers, vloggers, and influencers, sharing the rich history and cultural significance of perfumed oil. It is rebranding and, more importantly, finding another USP - the non-alcoholic aspect of it. That said, the USP also helped them tap into the religious angle much better than what the Friday prayers and venerations had to offer.

The revival of perfumed oils in Bangladesh is also a story of sustainability. In an era dominated by synthetic fragrances, attars' natural and eco-friendly nature is gaining recognition. Perfumed oils rely on natural ingredients and traditional distillation methods with minimal environmental impact.

Farmers in regions like Sylhet and Rajshahi are finding new livelihoods by cultivating aromatic plants such as sandalwood, vetiver, and patchouli. This supports the local economy and promotes biodiversity and sustainable agricultural practices. 

Galib Nakib Rahman is an engineer turned finance enthusiast. He can be reached at [email protected].

Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this article are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and views of The Business Standard.