What’s behind the unrest in the RMG sector?

RMG workers' protests erupted on 29 August. Their demands from the garment factory owners reportedly include the recruitment of an equal number of men and women, increased salaries and other benefits, and reduced workloads. 

Since the onset of the protests and in the post-Hasina era, there has been a lot of speculation about the causes or "instigators" of these protests.  

Now, nearly two weeks into unrest and disruptions across the RMG hubs (such as Ashulia and Gazipur), we spoke to an RMG owner and a labour activist to understand the ground reality and ways to an amicable solution. 

Shams Mahmud, Managing Director, Shasha Denims Ltd and former president of DCCI. Illustration: TBS

'The problems will not be restricted to RMG, they will have a knockdown effect '

Shams Mahmud

Managing Director, Shasha Denims and Former President, DCCI

It is true that the recent RMG workers' unrest in Ashulia is related to outsider groups vying for dominance, especially over the scrap business. Another problem is the vacuum created by the lack of sufficient police officers to bring the situation under control. 

The close proximity of factories to each other in Ashulia has also contributed to the unrest spreading across the area. Garment factories in Gazipur, for instance, are running fine. This unrest is just localised to Ashulia. Had it been a genuine protest, then it would have spread to the entire country.

But the workers themselves are very sincere and they want to work. It is outsiders who are primarily leading the unrest. 

There are larger implications of this for the RMG sector. Winter is a peak season for the industry and the orders for that are placed around this time of the year. Those orders could be diverted to other countries due to the unrest. This will end up affecting macroeconomic stability down the line. 

Furthermore, we are not able to discuss other major challenges, such as energy security, because we are all currently engaged in this discussion. Our backward linkage is already suffering. If we are now held back by the lack of energy security, that will also affect the financial sector. The problems will not just be restricted to RMG, they will have a knockdown effect on the entire economy.     

TBS' SM Abrar Aowsaf spoke to Shams Mahmud over the phone.

Nazma Akhter. Sketch: TBS

'We stand with workers, but there is a way and manner to make oneself heard'

Nazma Akter 

President of the Sommilito Garments Sramik Federation 

The RMG sector is an established place where more than four million workers work directly and millions of others indirectly. During the Awami League regime for 15 years, everyone was Awami League – for example, the ministers, MPs, mayors, high officials, administrators, labour activists. This is to say we had to 'support' them [representatives or members of the AL party], be it out of compulsion or otherwise – for the sake of work and operations. 

Now after all these years, even when, for instance, let's say I fled, my party people remain right? They did not flee, nor did the politicians.

So when there is talk about "outside" instigation or "outsiders" involved in the latest RMG sector unrest, we can suspect the involvement of politicians from that lot. 

Interestingly, female RMG workers have not been present in this unrest. 

I want to make something clear — we stand with the garment workers and their demands, but there is a way and manner to make oneself heard. The vandalism and violence are not acceptable. It is important to refrain from illogical behaviour. 

The forced resignations are also a matter of concern. From executive directors to supervisors [in RMG] are being forced to leave the factory. Let me give you an example, the other day, a production manager was forced to resign — because of "party affiliation." 

Now again, we have to understand that during the Awami League regime — everyone had to be a supporter, it was just how things were. So we cannot "demand" these people resign — and then do it by force. With that PM gone, who will look after his part of the work; he has a part to play in the factory operations. Is there a replacement? This will disrupt operations. 

The impact is severe — and we have seen it happen before. If this [the way the protest and unrest have taken place] were to continue, then the brands [clients] would [ultimately] take their orders elsewhere. And by that, I mean other country destinations such as Pakistan, Vietnam, etc. The factories will close. So if we don't protect the factories, if it closes, then what will happen to these jobs? The same people [protestors] will come asking for a job then. And the majority is women. There is no alternative. 

Moreover, it is not like the factory owners are coming together to peacefully resolve this. For instance, on 8 September night, some sat together and announced they would declare a general holiday for their factories in Ashulia. But in reality, on 9 September, in some factories, workers were laid off, some factories remained closed, while others remained open. 

This creates confusion and more scope for unrest. Another example is — some factory owners said salaries will be paid today (9 September), now I hear, the factory is saying sorry not today, so the workers surrounded that factory in protest. 

These are not right. This will not solve the problem, rather it will provoke more clashes. Listen to the workers in an organised way. Here worker's union real participation is also necessary. Here, they have to keep in mind the issues of wage, workers' welfare. The previous government had promised to include a rationing system for workers, which is pending. That's how workers are always subjected to fake commitments. The interim government should pay attention to these too. 

So I request the factory owners, the interim government and the RMG workers to sit and talk, to have an open dialogue, to discuss these demands and reach a solution together.

TBS' Nusmila Lohani spoke to Nazma Akter over the phone.