Know your Jamdani: Understanding patterns, thread counts and more
The time required to make a Jamdani sari depends on factors like thread type, motif complexity, and daily weaving hours, ranging from seven days to six months, with prices reflecting this variability
For many women, Jamdani is more than just a shari — it's a cherished family heirloom, kept safe in a mother's cupboard, ready to be passed down. Each pattern on the shari and the delicate thread seems to ground us to our roots.
The Jamdani tradition dates back to ancient Bengal, with roots stretching as far back as the Mughal era and even earlier. Originating from Bengal's legendary muslin tradition, this art of weaving was perfected under Mughal patronage and reached a golden era of popularity in the 17th century.
Jamdani sharis are experiencing a remarkable revival, captivating both traditional enthusiasts and modern fashion lovers. Once exclusive to upper-class society, Jamdani has now evolved into an everyday style statement, featuring fresh and innovative designs that are widely available.
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Designers and artisans are experimenting with new colour palettes, contemporary patterns, and fusion styles, blending classic Jamdani motifs with modern ones to appeal to younger generations as well.
Platforms like "Jo- The story of handloom jamdani" and "Jamdani O Amader Golpo" have emerged to celebrate and share the rich history, artistry, and versatility of Jamdani, bringing the craft to a global audience and making it more accessible than ever.
While the tradition of Muslin faded over time, Jamdani has endured, evolving into a fabric that remains timelessly unique. Still handwoven with techniques passed down through generations, each Jamdani shari is a testament to history and artistry. According to K M Auvik Jamil, founder of "Jo," it is the weaving process itself that defines Jamdani's uniqueness.
Skilled weavers use traditional handlooms, and this labour-intensive process ensures that no two Jamdani sharis are alike; each one tells its own story of the weaver's dedication and artistry.
Nayma Sultana, owner of "Jamdani O Amader Golpo," emphasises that this weaving technique is so exceptional that UNESCO has recognised it as an intangible cultural heritage. Using warp and weft threads, artisans bring forth intricate motifs with tools like the maku and kandul.
Reflecting on the craft, she shares, "Even now, when I look at a Jamdani shari, I marvel at how two people can create such flawless work entirely by hand!"
Depending on several factors, such as the type of thread, the complexity of the motifs, and the hours the weaver works each day, making a Jamdani shari can generally take anywhere from only seven days to even six months.
Half silk vs cotton Jamdanis
The most commonly woven kinds of jamdani are half silk and cotton jamdani. Traditionally, they were woven exclusively in pure cotton, using extremely fine threads, which we know as Dhakai Muslin. Over time, Jamdani has evolved significantly, changing both materials and designs while adapting to modern tastes and trends.
Auvik Jamil explains that authentic, handmade half-silk Jamdani sharis are priced between Tk4,000 and over Tk100,000, depending on the intricacy of the design and thread quality. Similarly, for cotton Jamdani sharis, prices start from Tk6,000 and can exceed Tk100,000.
Nayma explains, "Although Jamdani primarily comes in two types, some sharis are sold at lower prices where nylon is used instead of silk. There are also a few shari made with Khadi cotton in 200/200 count, which are very rare and expensive, and those are a continuation of the traditional Dhakai Muslin"
"However, from my observation, Jamdani sharis in the Tk15,000 to Tk20,000 range are the most popular among half-silk options," she adds.
Both Nayma Sultana, owner of "Jamdani O Amader Golpo," and Auvik Jamil, founder of "Jo," agree that while both cotton and half-silk Jamdanis are manageable, beginners may find cotton Jamdani a more accessible option.
Nayma explains, "Cotton Jamdani is less delicate and easier to maintain, making it a great choice for those who are new to the fabric." Auvik Jamil adds, "While half-silk Jamdani is equally beautiful, it requires more care because of its finer threads and glossy finish."
Nayma believes that women under forty tend to favour the vibrant, shiny appeal of half-silk Jamdani, while those over forty often prefer the classic elegance of cotton.
"I've noticed that younger women are drawn to the shimmer and bold colours of half-silk," says Nayma.
The older generation, who have been familiar with Jamdani for years, gravitate towards the simplicity and timeless beauty of cotton cherished by those who appreciate its traditional roots in Dhakai Muslin's fine cotton threads.
Jamdani sharis made in Bangladesh, specifically in Narayanganj, are considered the epitome of authentic craftsmanship. The unique weaving technique and the specific climate of this region contribute to the unparalleled quality of these sharis.
According to Auvik Jamil, "Jamdani made in Indian styles are typically machine-made half-silk fabrics following common Bangladeshi motifs, but they lack the authenticity and fine artisanship of those woven in Bangladesh."
Pricing according to the thread counts
A common misconception about Jamdani sharis is that their pricing is determined solely by thread count; rather, the true pricing factor is the time and labour involved in creating each shari. "The amount of time it takes to weave a shari is the primary factor in pricing," explains K M Auvik Jamil.
Historically, weavers were not familiar with the concept of thread count. It only became widely recognised during the surge in demand for Jamdani sharis following the pandemic.
"I believe the idea of thread count that led to this misconception was introduced to help explain the quality of the shari to online customers," shares Nayma. "Since customers only see pictures of the shari, knowing the thread count allows them to estimate its quality."
Sharis with simpler designs and common motifs are often made with lower thread counts, while more elaborate and complex designs crafted by skilled weavers require higher thread counts and command higher prices.
Jamdani sharis are crafted with a range of thread counts, each suited to different styles and purposes in the weaving process. Common counts include 40, 60, 80, and 84, with higher-end sharis featuring finer threads like 100 or even 200 counts. Weavers often choose 84 or 100-count threads for intricate, luxury designs, while budget-friendly Jamdanis are typically made with 40 or 60-count threads.
When asked about the approximate pricing of Jamdani sharis, Auvik Jamil explains, "Traditionally, Jamdanis made with 40-count threads range from Tk3,500 to Tk6,000. sharis made with 60-count threads can vary between Tk6,000 to Tk20,000. For 80-count thread sharis, the price ranges from Tk12,000 to Tk35,000. 84-count to 100-count sharis are priced between Tk30,000 and Tk100,000.
The unique beauty of its intricate motifs and colour combinations makes it stand out. When purchasing a Jamdani, customers focus largely on these aspects — the motifs and the colour combinations that bring the shari to life.
"I think the demand for these four colours — red, maroon, white, and black — is the highest. However, buyers tend to prefer pastels or multi-coloured Jamdani sharis more these days." says Nayma Sultana".
While the design and colour take centre stage, the material and quality also play a significant role in the buying decision.
She added, "Among buyers, the 80 count is well-known, which the weavers recognise as "Alamin 40" or "Chikon shuta"(thin thread), and the 84 count can now be considered the standard count. Both buyers and sellers primarily rely on these counts."
Jamdani motifs
Jamdani sharis are known for their distinct and often symbolic motifs. According to Auvik Jamil, some of the most popular patterns today include Mostok, Korolla Paar, Choy Pakri Noksha, Angurlata Paar, Bagher Para, and Sheborka Jaal.
"I took a bold step in experimenting with new motifs in Jamdani sharis, and thankfully, the results have exceeded my expectations," shares Nayma. "Both my business and I are still quite small, but our page gained significant popularity in the online world for introducing unique Jamdani designs."
She continues, "Our signature designs — such as Padma, Suhasini, Bilashi, Kalpataru, Mohamaya, Saralyo, Surjomukhi, Gulmohr, Ghashful, Nalini, Cleopatra, and Fulrasa — were first introduced by Jamdani O Amader Golpo. In these designs, I blended traditional Jamdani motifs with fresh floral and vine patterns, which customers warmly embraced."
Choosing the right jamdani
The thread count plays a crucial role in the texture and feel of the shari but does not directly impact its durability. High-thread count Jamdanis are incredibly fine, soft, and lightweight.
On the other hand, lower thread count Jamdanis are more suitable for everyday wear.
"Regardless of the thread count, a well-maintained Jamdani can last for years," advises Auvik Jamil. Proper care includes kata-washing (a traditional washing technique), not soaking in water, not ironing, keeping rolled and not under weight pressure, and keeping in a less moist and humid place to ensure longevity.
For those living in warm climates, lighter and finer Jamdani sharis made with higher thread counts offer better comfort. These sharis are breathable and lightweight, allowing for ease of movement and comfort in the heat.
Typically, lower thread count Jamdanis are chosen for regular, budget-friendly sharis, while higher thread count sharis are reserved for special occasions.
However, the choice of thread count depends not only on the occasion or the climate but also on the wearer's comfort and preference.
As the thread count increases, the fabric becomes finer, lighter, and softer, enhancing comfort, especially in warmer climates. Higher thread counts, like 84 or 100, create a delicate, smooth texture that feels gentle on the skin, making them ideal for special occasions. However, they tend to be more transparent, which may make some wearers feel less confident or comfortable with the coverage.
Lower thread counts, like 40 or 60, result in a thicker, sturdier fabric that offers more structure and durability, making it more suitable for everyday wear. These sharis are also less transparent and can provide more coverage, which many find more comfortable for daily use.
Nayma shared, "I personally find pure cotton 84-count sharis the most comfortable; they are not too transparent and feel just right."
However, while softer and lighter, higher-count sharis are more sensitive and require careful handling and storage. The threads can get tangled, damaging them.
How to take care of your jamdani
Jamdani is a delicate fabric, and there are a few ways to store it to ensure that it remains in perfect condition. Store it in a cool, dry place. Use a cotton or muslin bag for storage to allow airflow, which helps prevent moisture buildup.
Avoid folding it for long periods; instead, unfold and refold it occasionally to prevent creases from setting in permanently.
Never spray perfume directly on the shari, as the chemicals can weaken the fibres and discolour the fabric over time. If you prefer a crisper look, consider katawash (starching) but have it done professionally for the best results.
Additionally, a brief exposure to indirect sunlight every few months can help keep the shari fresh, but be cautious not to overexpose it, as too much sun can cause fading. For delicate or older sharisGF, seeking professional cleaning and storage advice can make a big difference in maintaining the shari's longevity and beauty.
